79075715891 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com!
Jim

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I first lifted the top of the stove up where the burners are then removed 7 philips head screws plus the 2 screws that hold the latch in place, which is just above the oven door. I pulled the old latch off the rod that goes to the lock motor.I hen put the new latch in and replced all the screws. Turned the self-cleaning cycle on and it worked perfectly.Thanks to the help of repair guy at Parts Select and the pictures made the repair simple and fast. Thank You Patrs Select

ordered received and placed it on the stove!! it was that easy!

Burner set screws froze up, was able to break 2 of 3 free and broke 3rd off. Used new simular screws to re- thread and fasten burner back in place. Bit of work but everything working. Used oppertunity to clean and re-level while I was at it. Everything good to go.

First of all I would like to comment on how it easy it was to place this order and I was pleasantly surprised that it was rec'd the next day. Also it was the correct part that I needed. To install it, first I removed the screws and then the metal that was holding the broken glass. Once the broken glass was removed, I set the new glass in the metal strips and basically screwed it back together. Please note to be careful to remember which screws go where as they are not the same size and do not fit anywhere but where they belong. That was the only part of the job that I had a problem with.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put the next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!

Piece of cake. Fit like a glove. Thank you

removed face screws from drawer. Previous poster described our problem exactly- middle screw on drawer pull had come loose and fallen down, which probably caused the pull to break in the first place, just as his had done. Replaced handle- very easy and like brand-new. Great site- easy to navigate and find the right parts, very fast shipping.

If you intend to replace the igniter electrode ( part no. PS436633), purchase a minimum of twelve (12) top burner mounting screws ( part no. PS437925).

I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.

After time, the heads of the mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.

Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.

First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.

To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).

Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.

I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.

To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.

If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.

I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.

I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.

The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).

Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).

If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.

Hope this helps.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

It went very well. Very quick. Just took out a couple of screws, took out the rest of the broken glass, slipped the new piece in and screwed it all back together. This was the first time I had ever tried to fix any part of a range/oven before, it was very simple...

Remove 8 #2 Phillips Tipped Machine Screws from exterior sides of oven door. Remove Shell/FrameClean. Clean any remaining glass/debris. Insert new glass into frame. Install frame onto oven door. Install screws.

Time saving tip. Clean all surfaces including interior glass beforehand for best and fastest results.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.