36275201890 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Lake Elsinore, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not turn off due to inoperative thermostat
1st ensure thermostat is intact, I thought it was broken but upon further investigation I noticed that one of the screws that hold the thermostat in place had came loose which cause the thermostat knob not to be able to turn the thermostat stem. Re-installed thermostat mounting screw and it worked just fine.
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- Customer:
- Scott from Corinth, MS
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Wife broke gas lines when trying to clean under hood
Removed old line with wrench and attached new line to gas valve first. Then lowered hood to the stop and attached gas line to burners.........very easy and works fine now.
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- Customer:
- Paul from San Francisco, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB19K10001
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Oven will not preheat. Pulses on an off.
Turned off the gas. Disconnected gas inlet, burner supply line and oven supply line from regulator. Unscrewed regulator from its bracket. Replaced with new regulator in reverse order and added teflon tape suitable for gas lines to all threads.
Unfortunately, the regulator was not the cause of the problem and the oven still does not prehead - acts exactly the same.
Unfortunately, the regulator was not the cause of the problem and the oven still does not prehead - acts exactly the same.
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- Customer:
- Leroy-Anthony from Jamaica, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven ,Going on/off intermittently" Very Dangerous during day /at night especially when all is asleep /away from home,not knowing!
To: Remove.Four(4)nuts. Six(6)screws. Two (2) clips. To:Reinstall reverse process. "Very simple stright forward, and most enjoyable."
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- Customer:
- Gary from Indio, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB29K10004
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
we had damaged the burner cap
just removed the old burner cap and put on the new one.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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- Customer:
- Clyde from ALLEGAN, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10016
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Grate Size
The grates are slightly smaller then the original Kenmore parts and they slide slightly. I purchased a full set of 4 grates - part number PS244182
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- Customer:
- Anne from OSSINING, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB29X36765, WB29K10005
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The burner caps were chipped and discolored.
I merely replaced the old caps with the new ones. It couldn't have been easier!
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- Customer:
- Teddy from Bel Air, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB29X36765, WB29K10005, WB29K10003
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
GOT 1-SMALL 2-MEDIUM 0-LARGE CAPS
PLEASE BE ADVISED WHEN THEY SHIPPED THE BACK ORDER 1 -(taupe) LARGE CAP - RECEIVED 4 BLACK CAPS - 1-SMALL
2-MEDIUM 1-LARGE (ALL BLACK) - STILL LOOKING FOR
A LARGE CAP IN taupe color!
Received refund for 1-large cap
PROBLEM IS ALL OTHER PARTS ON THE GAS STOVE
ARE taupe in color - do not want black!
your advice?
2-MEDIUM 1-LARGE (ALL BLACK) - STILL LOOKING FOR
A LARGE CAP IN taupe color!
Received refund for 1-large cap
PROBLEM IS ALL OTHER PARTS ON THE GAS STOVE
ARE taupe in color - do not want black!
your advice?
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- Customer:
- Karen from Dale City, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
No ignition
The repair was somewhat easy, it would have been easiere if I had figured out the right part in the first place! Replacing the Thermostat is a simple task and actually only took abut 10 minutes. The harder task was replacing the glow bar in the broiler area! What a pain! The part had the same gender connector as the existing wiring. Had to cut the connectors off and use ceramic wire nuts... should be simple but the wires on the replacement part were about 1/2 inch too short! After some creative manuvering and about an hour of cussing out the OEM part manufacturer it went together and worked OK but I suggest before trying to solve a problem like this remember the basics... always check the obvious first!
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- Customer:
- GLENDA from HENDERSON, NV
- Parts Used:
- WB29X36765, WB29K10005, WB29K10003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Missing Burner Caps.
Caps were shipping very quickly. Price was very reasonable. Very happy with parts-selects service.
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- Customer:
- Sally from Bakersfield, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
broke tubes while cleaning under top
was still using back burners while waiting for parts (after safety check). I unplugged the electric for the igniters, raised top, installed tubes, checked for leaks with soap solution, closed top, plugged in electric tested burners. Got a big hug and kiss from my wife.
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- Customer:
- DAPHNE from CHICAGO, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench (Adjustable)
while cleaning I broke the tubes either lifting or closing the top.
I bent the tubes very slghtly to rech the area of attachment. I first screwed them with my hand then tightened them with an adjstable wrench. It was really simple and fast.
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- Customer:
- Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Broken thermostat.
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
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- Customer:
- Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
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