79093852301 Kenmore Range - Instructions

After making sure it was the switches themselves not the burners that were the problem, it was easy locating the exact parts I needed on PartSelect and the shipment arrived in a timely manner. I had to replace two out of four switches. Using a screwdriver, I detached the display pannel and removed the faulty switches. Then I disconnected the old wires and attached them to the new switches, one at a time. Closed everything up and the "new" range works great!

I ordered the exact replacement element, and after unpacking it, it took about 5 minutes (actually,less; didn't time it), and the new element was installed and working fine.Thank you very much.

Removed the old oven racks and put in the new ones.

Pulled range out from wall, Tilted range backward and install leveling leg. Sat range upright and adjusted leveling legs to level range. Removed bad surface element and installed new element.

I bought the clock/timer board from Part Select. After receiving the part I open the back panel of the clock/timer and replace the board. I took out the wires one after the other and replace the wire one at a time until I finished replacing all wires. I went to the garage and switch on the breaker switch for the range and everything works well so far. I'm not sure though if the clock/timer that I purchased from Part Select includes the fix to the flow.

Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

Replaced the control I got from you , even though it was a little different the lugs matched up and works great.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.

I looked at video and followed the instructions from the man in the video. I pulled out range and then unplugged range from electrical outlet. I removed screws from back and took back off. I then took the two screws out from front of switch. I pulled switch out and then removed one of the wires off and placed it in the same place on the new switch. I did same on the other two wires. I then put switch back in place and tighten the two screws on front. I replaced the back on the range. I plugged range back into the receptacle, pushed range back in place. I put control knob on and then turned it on. The eye worked fine. Very easy!

Quit after getting shocked. New part had different configuration. Hard to see marking for pull and plug from old switch to new switch. New switch had different configuration. After all that and making sure switch worked, got shocked as stove was pushed back to wall. Some other issues with wiring has a shorting out problem. Maybe time to call a pro or get rid of the stove and get the gas stove we have been longing for. Be sure to match points on pulling and plugging as the configuration may be different.

We removed the back of the stove, unscrewed switch from the stove face and unplugged the wires from the old switch. The new switch was universal so I had to follow the numbers by the prong on the old switch to determine which was the correct prong to plug the wires, plugged them in, screwed the switch back to the stove face and replaced the back Viola all fixed.

Took the back off and replaced the switch for that burner. Got alittle nervous because the switch did not look the same and the connectors were labeled differently, but it worked. Lost the red light button some how during the repair so when I turned the stove on sparks came out the back because the light connector was loose so I did have to order another one of those.

Pulled stove away from the wall and unplugged it. Removed probe and cut the wires because the connection clip on the new probe was different from the original. Leave the wires as long as possible because you will need the extra length to splice the clip from the old probe to the wires on the new one. Replaced probe and plugged the oven back in. Done.