1033658710 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the oven grates and removed 2 screws that held the bottom pan in the oven to get easy access to the burner and igniter. Remove 2 screws that held the burner in place. Removed wire nuts. Removing burner allowed easy access to fasteners holding ignitre in place. Confirmed that the igniter was bad by checking the continuity. Ordered part later in the evening from parts select. Part was here 2nd morning after I ordered it. Installed, and checked to make sure igniter wasworking properely. When check confirmed igniter was working, replace oven components. Saved myself $100 or more by doing it myself rather than having a repairman out.

1) use screwdriver to remove screws securing lower pan in oven (screws are at back of oven)
2) remove lower pain to expose igniter and burner
3) remove lower storage drawer
4) disconnect 2 igniter wires from where they are attached underneath
5) use nutdriver to remove burner from above and below (this makes it easier to remove the igniter)
6) use nutdriver to remove the faulty igniter
7) cut off clips from faulty igniter leaving enough length to strip and then attach with ceramic caps to new igniter. (be sure you attach the right clip to the right wire)
8) reverse the process to install the new igniter.
20 minutes tops

The range still worked and the broiler still worked. I noticed that the ignitor for the broiler turned on and glowed a short time after starting the broiler. I dissembled the floor of the oven (just two screws) and tried the same for the oven, but the ignitor did not start or glow. I ordered the part. It was sent withing two days. It was easy to replace and the oven has worked well since. I recommend ordering the attachment fixture as well, in that taking apart the one that held the old ignitor immediately stripped a screw and I ended up bending the fixture and having to reshape it (the small extra cost will be very well worthwhile!)

I removed the oven burner while the igniter attached. put unit on my bench and changed the igniter and reinstalled the burner and reattached the wires to the supply terminals. Tested the unit and it lite up ok.

I open the oven, then pulled out the racks. I went on to remove the bottom pan by removing 2 screws from the back.. I then removed the broiler burner and disconnected the wires from the relay. I unscrewed the igniter and replaced it. I stripped the wires and connected the old connectors using the ceramic wire nuts. I put the burner back in place and connected the wiring.. I then trested the unit to make sure it worked . . .it did. I replaced the bottom pan and racks and once again made sure everything was working right.

Job done.

Moved stove out from wall and unplugged 110 cord. Removed broken igniter from broiler with nut driver. Removed protective cover from back of stove. Cut off plug from existing igniter wires on the back of the stove. Installed new igniter and fed wires trough to the back of stove and connected the wires with the supplied wire nuts. Reinstalled protective cover on the back of the stove. Plugged the 110 cord back in and returned stove back to the original location.

Using descriptions provided by others at this site, I replaced the old igniter with the new one very easily. Since this was the second time this oven has needed a new igniter, I did not need to cut the wires as described. Instead, I just disconnected the old igniter wires and rewired the new igniter wires. Replaced all the items I'd removed and the oven functions just fine.

Good friend said he could do it no problem at all!!!!!

i removed the oven door and then the lower panel.the two screws holding the igniter were hard to access, so i removed the gas rail.this made the job much easier. the advice from other people on this website was very helpful and made the repair much easier.just remember to shutoff both the electric and gas supply.

removed screw from heat sheild, unpluged igniter and tested for 110v on wires feeding igniter (ok). removed bad igniter,ordered new one and installed with 2 - 1/4in. hex head screws. cut old male and female plug ends off old igniter, and wirenutted onto new igniter. turned on oven and it works fine. but noticed after oven burner lights, igniter stays on the whole time oven is on. I would think that it should go off when burner lites. Does anyone know if this is normal operation?

Replaced the old igniter with new one in 15 minutes. Popped the door off, took the bottom plate off, unscrewed the igniter and disconnected wires. Put the new igniter in and reversed the steps.....piece o'cake! Works great now!

The broiler still worked, so I knew the issue was not with the power or gas to the oven. It was easy to remove the inside bottom of the oven to look at the igniter and burner. 4 screws hold the oven bottom in place. After the igniter was in view, I turned on the oven to see if it glowed, which it did not. 2 more screws out and the igniter was loose. The two wires coming out of the igniter go through a hole in the back of the oven to a compartment below the oven. This compartment is accessed by removing the bottom drawer and removing a panel in the lower back of the oven held in by 4 screws. After disconnecting the wires, I attached a thin pull wire to them then pulled the igniter out through the oven door. The pull wires made it easy to feed the new igniter wires through the back of the oven. The rest is a reverse of the process.

FIrst, have the tools you will need, a straight ratchet screwdriver, 1/4" ratchet/screwdriver set, a 90 degree offest, some small plastic bags to hold/tape screws to the pieces you take apart, and a flashlight.

1) Turn off the breaker to the oven.

2+ 3) Take the oven door off. It simplly lifts straigh up off the hinges. ( It slides back on hinges when you're done.) Take off the botton kick plate by pulling top down. The botton in on a hinge.

4) Slide out the oven racks.

5) Take out the inside bottom cover of the oven which is inside the oven. The cover lays flat and is attached by two screws in the back inside corners. You have to lift it up/out back edge first. (Put it back front edge first, & realign screw spring clips if necessary)

6) Slide out the oven gas line/igniter cover, which is found immedicately under the oven cover, by taking out one screw front center. You will then see the igniter in the back of the oven next to the gas line. *DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING HOLDING THE GAS LINE*.

7) From under the oven, take out two side screws helping to support the botton tray, one each middle side. Then take out the two most front bottom screws. while holding the front edge up. (It will drop) Then slide it out of groves in the back of the oven.

8) Take out the inside cover (2nd botton cover) by taking out the two screws from the inside front top. It will also slide out. This will totally open up access to the igniter bracket attacked to the gas line. *NOTE CURRENT PLACEMENT OF IGNITER WIRES*

9) Take off the two igniter bracket screws. Put the new igniter in its place.

10) Cut one wire off the old igniter as close to the old igniter part as possible. *YOU WILL NEED ALL THE EXTRA WIRE* *DO ONE AT A TIME* Match the same wire position old to new, strip 1/4", twist and ceremic wire nut provided together. Do the same with the second wire.

Put all parts back in reverse order.

There are other descriptions here, but here's my story. I pulled the oven door off (pull straight up on it, it will come off) and removed the bottom warming drawer (there are plastic tabs on the outside of each side of the drawer--slide them and pull, several times on each side). I turned off the gas from behind the stove and unplugged the range, undid two screws at the back of the oven floor and lifted it forward and up. The burner is visible, but here is the hard part. The bolts holding the ignitor are underneath it and angled such that it is almost impossible to get any type of tool near them. I have small hands, and that helped. The screws are a bolt-head type or hex head, and I found that a one quarter inch open end wrench sort of fit. 6mm was too small and 7mm was too large. I managed to get the screws loosened after much struggling and manuvering, with half my body inside the oven, and once it was out, I was able to reach in from where the warming drawer was and unscrew the two wire leads attached from the ignitor to the power. They are held by plastic screwcaps. The reverse process was self explanatory, except that you should put the new ignitor in the oven and feed the wires down through the back panel, then attach the screwcaps to join the wires to the leads. Then go back in the oven and attach the ignitor, back screw first, and tighten it all the way, since you may not be able to reach it once the front screw is in. Also, use the screws that come with the new ignitor, since they are easier to start than the old ones. Tighten the screws as tight as you can get them so the ignitor doesn't wiggle, then turn the gas back on and plug it in, and test it before you put it back to gether. Mine worked, but it was a pain to do, kind of like working on an old car that wasn't designed to be fixed easily. Good luck.

replaced oven igniter - further details superflous as others have acurately documented the fix and procedure - thanks to all of you -