9117389180 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed the door. Unscrewed the hinge from front of oven. Took broiler drawer out. Unhooked the spring. Removed hinge. Screwed new hinge in. Rehooked the spring. Slid oven door back on hinges. Mission accomplished. Oven door works like a champ. Wife happy.

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

I tapped the screwdriver with a hammer lightly on each of three screws to loosen them. I checked to see the position of the spring on the hinge. I then removed the hinge, put on the new hinge and placed the spring in the exact same position. The door works very good. The hinge replacement was a no-brainer.

I removed the bottom pan and then removed the flame extender to get access to the igniter. I removed the two screws and cut the wires. I then wired the new igniter and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the part. After that I installed the igniter. It was very easy to do this repair.

removed oven door, removed drawer under oven, removed three screws holding hinge assembly, unhooked spring from hinge arm, inserted new hinge arm, attached spring, positioned hinge assembly and replaced screws, reinstalled drawer beneath oven being certain that no pot handles interfere with the hinge spring loaded arm, reinstall oven door.

The repair went surprisingly well! My only problem was the bottom screws needed WD40 to loosen, but otherwise the parts went in easily.

i followed the same directions others had posted - good tip to remove the oven door for easier access - i was nervous about stripping the wires to splice together, so i made my hubby strip the wires for me :) - did all the rest myself. no trouble at all - if a girl can do it, anyone can do it!

Remove the broiler pan to get at the 2 nuts that hold the gas burner, remove them and then you can get at the 2 nuts on the back side of the igniter.

I was able to access the burner and igniter by removing the broiler drawer. The flame guard was removed with a nut driver and the old igniter with a phillips screwdriver.

The electrical wires had to be spliced into the old igniter wires as they did not come with the factory connectors. However sire nuts were supplied.

After replacement of the igniter with the new one .. it would glow and about a minute later the gas would come on. However the gas from the burner did not light. I had to adjust the bracket closer to the burner to correct the issue.

Note: The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. This means that it will continue to glow even after the burner lights durning oven operation.

I figured out the problem, ordered the part, and replaced it. Four hex head screws, two wire nuts, and two thum screws latter it was working.

Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.

My husband removed the two screws t hat hold the element in place, Then he pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and replace the element with the new igniter put everything back and now its working like a charm

Remove the front door-lifted off(no tools) removed the floor of the oven (2 standard nuts at the rear). nut driver to remove the igniter. Took longest to untwist and retwist wires & dropped screws. reassembled and tested...worked perfice. this is the 4th time I've used Parts Select and It's great....Thanks and keep up the good work!

Removed the bottom plate inside the stove by removing two back screws. The burner was exposed. roved a total of three screws on gas burner to remove the entire assembly. Removed two screws from the old igniter and then put new one on. Save the old connectors because they have unique connectors. Cut old wire and strip 3/8 inch of wire cover off. Using the supplied wire nuts. Caution use only supplied wire nuts because they are meant for heat. connect old wire to new wire of the new igniter. Reverse order of screws that you did for the job. That is it

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...And then I installed
ignitor tightening the two screws and connected the two ignitor wires with the provided wire-nuts.
Mike Polcho