91146565096 Kenmore Range - Instructions

repair went fine, real easy.

Replaced

First pull knob off switch. You may need a small screwdriver to gently start it. I then removed two screws, one in each end of control panel. Then rolled the panel up and out, as it is kind of hinged in the back. Removed two screws from switch front,layed it to the side and installed new switch. Removed wires (there were 5) one at a time with needle nose pliers, and placed on new switch. Replaced panel screws and was finished. Easy fix, quick delivery of part, I have used Partselect in the past and will continue.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

First unplugged it. Then removed everything in side for easy access. Took screws out 2 of them. Had to pull to removed elemnet . That took a while. Should have tried removing other screws or at less loosen them. It went in easy. And lift off we had red burner. hey..

Removed two screws and removed the oven elelent. One wire was not through the back of the stove. Ordered new element anyway. Slid stove out (slide-in model). Unplugged power. Removed two covers protecting wires on back of stove. Found wire for oven element. Had to cut and strip end of wire and use new blade clip. Crimped new clip to wire and inserted into oven through back of stove. Replaced covers. Plugged oven element to wires and tried out oven. WORKED ! Saved new oven element for next time. Difficulty encounted was lack of knowledge on where stove was screwed into counter-top and what size blade clip to buy. It always helps to have a dog 3" away just itching to lend a paw.

I verified the parts that were sent to me to make sure they were what I needed. I read the instructions for the replacement of the new parts. I then moved the stove out away from the wall to access the back plate where the burner connections are located. I removed the cover plate to expose the connections. I then traced out the wires from the burner that needed to be replaced to the connections on the back panel. I disconnected the appropriate wires and tied them off on both ends because it was difficult to try and weave the old wires out and the new wires through the original channel they were running through. I removed the damaged ceramic housing and installed the new ceramic housing along with the new large burner ring. I then routed the new wires through the stove to the back connection panel and plugged them into the same positions as the old wires occupied. I then wrapped up the excess cable and tied it off and stored it inside the rear panel per the instructions. I tie wrapped the new cable along the route of the existing channel of wires from the front to the rear and then replced the back panel and secured it with the screws. I pushed the stove back to it's original position. I then tuned on the rear burner to see if was working properly, and it heated up fine.

I simply pulled the old ones out and replaced them with the new ones. It looks so much better and cleanes up well.

All I had to do was just unscrew the bolts,pull out the old one, and put the new one on its metal clips and then rebolt.So easy and I know I would have had to pay much more then what I did for the part..This place is super.I ordered my part one day, and it was there the next...Sandy

Instead of flipping circuit breaker, we pulled the oven away from the wall and unplugged it. Used socket wrench to loosen screws of bracket holding old element onto the back oven wall, then gently pulled element until connecting wires appeared. Removed the 'clips' attached to the old element prongs and discarded old element. Reattached the 'clips' to new element prongs, then gently pushed prongs into back into oven wall until the bracket was flush with the wall. Used socket wrench to screw and tighten the bracket into place. Plugged in the oven and tested the new element to make sure it worked. The whole process took only a few minutes.....it took longer to clean the oven before installing the new element.

Removed oven racks and took the opportunity to clean my oven. Then removed the two hex head nuts holding the burner assembly in place. I slid out the burner (very slowly) hoping the connectors were intact and that there was enough lead wire to make for an easy repair. Yes... there were 2 inches of lead wire. It took a couple of minutes to swap out the parts and... success!
Don't forget to turn off the circuit breaker before starting repairs.

Removed the old burner bowls, replacing them with the new ones.

I followed the way all the others on this website did the repair. It was so easy. I turned the power off to the oven, then disconnected it from the back oven wall, pulled it out a bit, disconnected the wires, and put it back in.

Then we put the power back on and stood back and turned on the stove and IT WORKED!!! Yeah, and for so little money... I tell you I shopped other websites and this one was priced GREAT, and just reading the stories how others had done this repair gave me the confidence to do it too. Now, I think I have a burner that I will replace and who knows what else I can find to do.

THANKS SO MUCH!!!

1. Turned off electrical breaker for range.
2. Removed the two hex head screws that hold element in place.
3. Pulled element out and unplugged the two electrical connectors.
4. Attached connectors to new element and attemped to push element back into the opening. It would not go in all the way.
5. Apparently some of the insulation had fallen down and was blocking the area where the element slides in.
6. I used a long thin screwdriver inserted into the two holes to push the insulation aside.
7. The element was then able to go in all the way.
8. Replaced two hex head screws.
9. Turned on range breaker.
10. Turned on oven. Works fine.