79095762990 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First thing I did was turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker. The repair was generally easy with the exception that 1 screw holding the broiler element support was "welded" into the oven ceiling. I stripped the screw trying to get it out. Fortunately, I had a special tool that allows one to grip the outer edge of the screw while turning it --- and that's how I got it apart. Once the broiler element support was off, I removed 2 screws holding the broiler element itself to the oven wall and carefully pulled the broiler element out from the oven wall and detached the wire clips connecting the wires to the broiler element. I reattached the clips onto the new element and installed the new element back into the oven wall. I then reattached the broiler element support using a another screw (because I decimated the original one). I then turned the circuit breaker back on and turned the broiler on. Woila. My broiler works again! Special thanks to the people at this site who were very helpful in seeing to it I got the correct broiler element. The original ordered broiler element was delivered to the wrong address. The folks at this site sent me another one. To make a long story short, they saw to it I got the correct part. I highly recommend this site based on my experience with them.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

I removed the oven door using a phillips screwdriver. It was very easy because I didn't have to worry about the door hinges springing the door back. I'm not really handy and it went very easy.

I had to replace the switch on one of the large elements. It could and should have been a quicker repair if there would have been some installation/wiring instructions included with the part. Other than that the repair went well.

First, I read about the experiences of others who did this repair.

Then I removed the oven door by removing the single screw at each hinge - visible when the door is open - using a #2 Phillips screwdriver (the only tool needed for this repair). I placed the door on the kitchen table and removed the two screws at the inside top of the door - they also hold the handle onto the door.

I placed the four screws removed from the inside corners of the door -- into one corner of a tray I used to hold the parts in order. Then I removed the eight screws from the perimeter of the door and placed them into another corner of the holding tray. Then I turned the door over and removed the outside part of the door from the inside - as in removing the cover from a box.

Then I removed four screws holding the middle and outside glass panels and placed them in another corner of the parts tray. Then I removed two screws holding the steel panel against the glass. Then I removed the broken glass from the bottom of the tray. That's when I discovered I had ordered the wrong glass panel.

I called the PartSelect number to return the glass, and while discussing how to return the part, I asked if I had to call another number to get the correct part. The lady assured me she could process my order for the correct part. She was very knowledgable about the system and quickly found the correct part from the schematic. I received the replacement part 24 hours later and installed it within 20 minutes.

Overall a success story. Excellent service and easy work.

Your website is great...easy and it literally took me no mote than 5 minutes to find what I needed and order...and received it VERY quickly. Must say I was dreading going to some parts house that we have in our town in bad area, and searching on dusty shelves for what I needed...am so glad I found you!!

was easy open the back side of the range and change the part, the only issue was the wire I used the diagram

first thing was to turn the breakers off. then pull the range away from the wall. used an 1/8 th inch socket to take off the back panel to get access to the switch.used a Phillips screwdriver to disconnect the switch under the knob in the front. took off the wire terminals one at a time and matched it to the numbers on the old switch.replaced the knob, screwed it on to the range. turned the breakers on and tested the switch.worked fine, replaced the back cover and pushed it back into place.

I tried to operate the rocker switch which switches from one element to two or vise versa. There was no resistance on the switch. I fiured it was defective. After I received the switch from Partsselect, I pried the old one out , remove the two wires, which were attached to the switch by spade terminals. I re-attached the wires to the new switch and pressed it, by hand, into the reage
console.

after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done

Unplugged range from wall plug, popped toggle out with screwdriver, unplugged wire ends, reattached to new switch and snapped in place.
Removed 9 screws from back of stove to remove broiler wires, removed wire racks from oven, used square driver to remove mount screw, removed old element and replaced with new, reinstalled all screws, plugged her up and tested. WORKS LIKE A NEW ONE !

Open the door and slide in the new rack.

I watched the video on how to do it

Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.

With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repair took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.