9117188810 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.

First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.

1) use screwdriver to remove screws securing lower pan in oven (screws are at back of oven)
2) remove lower pain to expose igniter and burner
3) remove lower storage drawer
4) disconnect 2 igniter wires from where they are attached underneath
5) use nutdriver to remove burner from above and below (this makes it easier to remove the igniter)
6) use nutdriver to remove the faulty igniter
7) cut off clips from faulty igniter leaving enough length to strip and then attach with ceramic caps to new igniter. (be sure you attach the right clip to the right wire)
8) reverse the process to install the new igniter.
20 minutes tops

Using descriptions provided by others at this site, I replaced the old igniter with the new one very easily. Since this was the second time this oven has needed a new igniter, I did not need to cut the wires as described. Instead, I just disconnected the old igniter wires and rewired the new igniter wires. Replaced all the items I'd removed and the oven functions just fine.

Moved stove out from wall and unplugged 110 cord. Removed broken igniter from broiler with nut driver. Removed protective cover from back of stove. Cut off plug from existing igniter wires on the back of the stove. Installed new igniter and fed wires trough to the back of stove and connected the wires with the supplied wire nuts. Reinstalled protective cover on the back of the stove. Plugged the 110 cord back in and returned stove back to the original location.

First I removed the bottom oven drawer then
I removed the heat shields. I removed the two
wires that connected the igniter and the two screws holding the igniter and removed it. I
replaced a wire connector on one side of the
igniter. The other igniter wire I soldered together
to the other wire. Then I replaced the igniter by
reconnecting the two mounting screws. Then I replaced the heat shields and the oven drawer.

Got the igniter ordered. Since the original igniter was still on the appliance, I had to cut the wires on the original igniter in order to be able to attach the new igniter with the wire connectors supplied. Make sure not to cut the wire on the original(defective) igniter too short because otherwise you will have to splice again.

Removed the bottom cover plate and the bottom storage drawer. Disconnected the burner and removed it. Replaced the old igniter with the new one. The new one required the wire connectors from the old one to be spliced onto it. Reattached the ignitor to the burner and reinstalled the burner. Tested the new ignitor before reinstalling the cover plate and storage drawer.

To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with excellent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald

First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy process(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.

I went to the GE website, did the trouble shooting and read that 80% of the time the igniter was the problem. I read how others did the repair, ordered the part and followed their steps. My only problem was the two screws were at a tough angle to get to, if it wasn't for that it would've been 15 minutes

Removed oven bottom panel. Removed lower drawer to access old igniter. Had to take a cover panel off to expose igniter. Unscrew two screws to remove igniter which was a bit awkward to reach. Then simply put new one in its place.

I followed the advice in the previous repair stories as this was very helpful.

I didn't know if polarity on the igniter mattered, so to be safe I marked the same wire on the old igniter and the corresponding wire on the new ignitor and plug, so it would be hooked up with the same polarity.

I took the burner element out to make it easier to replace the ignitor. I made sure to leave plenty of wire when cutting the connectors off the old igniter. Hooked everything up and it worked perfectly.

well,as with any repair that looks easy,i had to do a little more than what i had originally anticpated.
i was hoping for an access panel to the igniter,but after removing the lower drawer,there was only the heat shields and pans,about 20 screws later i got
to the igniter and spliced it in place,then reassembled it without too much fuss -now my 93 year old friend can bake her pecan pies for charity that is her favorite hobby-thanks