3627585590 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Unplug the electrical power first. Remove the drawer from the bottom of the stove. Then you can unplug the two wires that go to the ignitor. Inside the stove, remove the bottom cover plate by removing two screws at the back. You may need to loosen them with a flat screwdriver first. The ignitor has two screws that hold it to the long tubular part where the gas burns. There are two screws at the back which hold the tubular part (and one screw at the front). I removed the tubular part by removing these three screws. Then you can remove the ignitor, compare it to the new one to make sure it's the right part. Cut off the wires from the old part so you can use the same connectors. Splice these wires onto the new part, and insulate them with tape. Replace the ignitor onto the "tubular part" and attach it back into the oven. Plug the wires in, replace the bottom cover and drawer, plug the range back in and test it out. Mine worked great on the first try. The hard part is reaching to the back of the oven to remove (and re-install) the two screws that hold the "tubular part".

Followed previous posts, just took out the metal pan (2) 1/4" head screws. Removed the ignitor bracket (2) 1/4" head screws. Disconnected the existing ceramic wirenuts. Removed the ignitor from the bracket......this was the hardest part as the self threading screw stripped out in the sheet metal. Took some time to remove that screw and re-tap the hole to #10-32. Once that was done used a #10-32 x 1/2" machine screw with lock washer. All went back together fine from there.

I put the grates in backwards and the wife had to turn them around after teasing me about it......maybe I should do more baking.......

removed the gas burner which allowed easy access to undo the old igniter.
opened the wire hatch in the back of the oven cavity, and also took off the cover (two screws) on the back panel to allow access to the igniter connector.
I cut the wires to the old igniter, leaving lots of wire, stripped the wire, and then hooked up the new igniter using the supplied ceramic / hi-temp twist on connectors.
then just closed up everything in reverse.
helps to take off oven door, and you need access to the back side of the oven.

0) Unplug oven and shut off gas at the valve behind oven.
1) removed oven door (no tools required)
2) Removed enamed steel oven bottom (2 thumbscrews, push back, pull out)
3) Removed base panel on outside of oven (some might have a warming or storage drawer)
4) From bottom, removed heat shield to allow access to underside of igniter -- 4 sheet metal screws, use 1/4" nutdriver
5) Now you should see all of the igniter, along with its wiring. One lead goes to a spade lug, the other uses a white nylon connector. Unplug igniter.
6) Using 1/4" nut driver, unscrew igniter from below. This is probably the toughest part of the job.
7) Once igniter is removed, put the bad igniter and the new igniter side by side. The leads on the replacement igniter are probably not going to be long enough (I ran into this), so clip the leads from the old igniter at the bas of the igniter and splice into the leads from the new igniter. After stripping the lead ends, I used a barrel splicer, but a wire nut or an inline splice with some heatshrink tubing or cloth electrical tape should also work fine.
8) Reverse steps above to install.

The igniter apparently controls the gas flow, so if the igniter doesn't get hot, the gas won't flow. In other words, be careful, but don't worry too much about having to worry about gas leaks, etc. In the end, it wasn't all that difficult, but I'm pretty good at home repair stuff. If you have a hard time plugging in a toaster, you should probably call a repairman.

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

After receiving the part ordered in one day, I removed the racks and the bottom flame spreader. The igniter assy. is held in by two screws, which only took a minute to remove. I removed the ceramic wire ties from, the old igniter and wire tied in the new one. Put everything back together and tested the oven. It works great again. Thanks for the quick response and delivery.

First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

On each side of the door at the top you will find an allen screw, remove those to remove the handle assembly. On the inside of the door, you will find two more silver allen screws, these release the glass frame. On the flimsy part that seperates from the main door frame, there are two small brackets that hold the glass panel. Remove those using a #2 philips head screwdriver, then using a flat head screwdriver, carefully pry out all the ramaining glass shards. The glass frame will be very wobbly, this is a good time to have a friend around. place the new glass panel in the bottom slot first, then just hold it up, with a helper on one side, and reinstall the top brackets. These fit tightly on the glass, so expect to have to push a bit. now reinstall the screws, fold both parts together, use the silver screws to reconnect the glass panel assembly to the door frame, and reinstall the handle. Now you have a nice new door front!