79095748992 Kenmore Range - Instructions

just put in slot

after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done

The simplest repair ever! I just snapped it in and put the drawer back - fixed. I hope I have other repairs this simple.

I tried to operate the rocker switch which switches from one element to two or vise versa. There was no resistance on the switch. I fiured it was defective. After I received the switch from Partsselect, I pried the old one out , remove the two wires, which were attached to the switch by spade terminals. I re-attached the wires to the new switch and pressed it, by hand, into the reage
console.

Your website is great...easy and it literally took me no mote than 5 minutes to find what I needed and order...and received it VERY quickly. Must say I was dreading going to some parts house that we have in our town in bad area, and searching on dusty shelves for what I needed...am so glad I found you!!

I removed the oven door using a phillips screwdriver. It was very easy because I didn't have to worry about the door hinges springing the door back. I'm not really handy and it went very easy.

Unplugged range from wall plug, popped toggle out with screwdriver, unplugged wire ends, reattached to new switch and snapped in place.
Removed 9 screws from back of stove to remove broiler wires, removed wire racks from oven, used square driver to remove mount screw, removed old element and replaced with new, reinstalled all screws, plugged her up and tested. WORKS LIKE A NEW ONE !

Remove drawer. Insert new slide. Install drawer.

Sat on floor, pulled drawer out, inserted new clips, remounted door, stood up, high-fives myself.

First, I read about the experiences of others who did this repair.

Then I removed the oven door by removing the single screw at each hinge - visible when the door is open - using a #2 Phillips screwdriver (the only tool needed for this repair). I placed the door on the kitchen table and removed the two screws at the inside top of the door - they also hold the handle onto the door.

I placed the four screws removed from the inside corners of the door -- into one corner of a tray I used to hold the parts in order. Then I removed the eight screws from the perimeter of the door and placed them into another corner of the holding tray. Then I turned the door over and removed the outside part of the door from the inside - as in removing the cover from a box.

Then I removed four screws holding the middle and outside glass panels and placed them in another corner of the parts tray. Then I removed two screws holding the steel panel against the glass. Then I removed the broken glass from the bottom of the tray. That's when I discovered I had ordered the wrong glass panel.

I called the PartSelect number to return the glass, and while discussing how to return the part, I asked if I had to call another number to get the correct part. The lady assured me she could process my order for the correct part. She was very knowledgable about the system and quickly found the correct part from the schematic. I received the replacement part 24 hours later and installed it within 20 minutes.

Overall a success story. Excellent service and easy work.

Used a slot screwdriver to pry the old guide...clipped the new guide into its place.

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

I removed the four screws holding the element in place and pulled the element out and disconnected the two wire. Installation was pretty much the reverse of the removal except, when I went to put the two screws holding the element to the top of the oven I discovered the holes were rusted out. I looked for inserts to put in the holes but every time I tried different inserts the holes got bigger. I finally realized the oven is just sheet metal so I moved the bracket about an inch drilled new holes and used self-tapping screws.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Removed old switch, moved the one wire to the same pin on new very cheaply made but expensive made in Mexico switch, replaced switch, pugged range back in too AC, operated new switch, created sparks and smoke. Element now glows to max immediately when turned on. Replaced stove problem gone!