66595812000 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Rhonda from Logan, OH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The oven was blowing a circuit.
Unplugged unit from wall.
Unscrewed the two screws on at he back of the oven where the element is attached
Removed old element by pulling apart the connectors.
Attached new element to the connectors.
Replaced cover with the two screws.
Unscrewed the two screws on at he back of the oven where the element is attached
Removed old element by pulling apart the connectors.
Attached new element to the connectors.
Replaced cover with the two screws.
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- Customer:
- Joseph K from PAHRUMP, NV
- Parts Used:
- WP3196548
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The oven light shorted out causing the safety thermostat to blow.
Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light
Works great again...without the light
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- Customer:
- Donald from Byron, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Top burner would not turn off at any time.
Unpluged range for safety (power earlier removed by circuit breaker turnoff).
Removed two screws from front switch cover.
Removed knob from effected switch and removed the wires on the back of the switch.
Removed two screws holding switch and removed switch.
Reversed the process to install new switch.
The entire project took about ten minutes.
Removed two screws from front switch cover.
Removed knob from effected switch and removed the wires on the back of the switch.
Removed two screws holding switch and removed switch.
Reversed the process to install new switch.
The entire project took about ten minutes.
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- Customer:
- Mary from OWASSO, OK
- Parts Used:
- 8184859
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Trip to small for glass frame.
Replaced bottom trim included in kit.
Installed side door trim.
While trying to slide glass front in place both plastic side trims broke.
Had to use already broken door trim and glued in. Just hope when use oven glue doesn’t melt and will have to replace entire oven.
Installed side door trim.
While trying to slide glass front in place both plastic side trims broke.
Had to use already broken door trim and glued in. Just hope when use oven glue doesn’t melt and will have to replace entire oven.
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- Customer:
- Stan from FLAT ROCK, NC
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
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- Customer:
- RUSSELL from LEESBURG, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
large right front burner wasn't going on
turner off circuit breakers for range, i rolled the range out from between counter tops so i could see the burner sw. using a flash light read all the numbers on the switch to my wife who wrote then down, knowing what the switch looked like i could find could find correct instruction video on parts select & check the switch numbers & ordered it. replacing- made myself a drawing of the wiring connections, replacing switch-power off, unscrewed mounting bracket, removed switch, removed ONE WIRE AT A TIME & CONNECTED IT TO SAME TERMINAL ON THE NEW SWITCH, remounted the switch & turner on circuit breakers
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- Customer:
- Justin from BEND, OR
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
This burner on our range had no temperature control - it was either full-on or full-off
1. Pull range out from wall
2. Unplug range
3. Remove back cover using drill and screwdriver bit
4. Remove dial handle on affected burner dial
5. Remove two screws to unattach broken infinite switch
6. Disconnect wires from broken infinite switch
7. Reconnect wires to new infinite switch
8. Attach new infinite switch using two screws
9. Use pliers to snap off end of post to fit your burner dial, if necessary. It was on ours.
10. Reconnnect dial handle.
11. Reattach back cover using drill and screwdriver bit.
12. Plug range back in
13. Relocate stove against wall
2. Unplug range
3. Remove back cover using drill and screwdriver bit
4. Remove dial handle on affected burner dial
5. Remove two screws to unattach broken infinite switch
6. Disconnect wires from broken infinite switch
7. Reconnect wires to new infinite switch
8. Attach new infinite switch using two screws
9. Use pliers to snap off end of post to fit your burner dial, if necessary. It was on ours.
10. Reconnnect dial handle.
11. Reattach back cover using drill and screwdriver bit.
12. Plug range back in
13. Relocate stove against wall
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- Customer:
- Robert from Mifflinburg, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP3196548
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The Range took forever to achieve the proper heating temperature with an inability to maintain a steady heat
I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Nelson from CORAL SPRINGS, FL
- Parts Used:
- 8184860
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
replace rusted door frame, 3 pices
The brief comments on how to with the order was most helpful, no problems replacing frame. Quality is good I thought the price was very high for the parts, considering plastic and metal pieces, but then again compared to new stove reasonable. Remove pieces replace back in order removed.
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- Customer:
- Melissa from MILL CITY, OR
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Extremely easy repair
Unplug stove. Remove the two screws attaching the element to the rear of the oven. Carefully pull out. Disconnect wires. Reconnect wires. Screw back in. Done. The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall.
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- Customer:
- Frank from COLUMBIA, TN
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Heating element, broken
Unplugged appliance, removed the 2 screws that mount element. Unhooked the electric wires,with pliers.
Connected, the wires to new element replaced the 2 screws. And was done in about 9 minutes.
Connected, the wires to new element replaced the 2 screws. And was done in about 9 minutes.
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- Customer:
- John from KENNEWICK, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
R/Front Range Element would not change to Med or Low setting. Stayed on full hot and burned food.
I disconnected power cord from house current. Removed back panels (2). I then removed round knob on front of range. I then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in place. After doing that, I gently removed the actual switch itself from back of face panel. I then separated the 2 elements of the switch.
I took new replacement switch and reinstalled the 2 parts of switch and placed back into hole in face panel. I reinserted the 2 front screws that holds the switch in place. I put the selection knob back on. However, the knob does not fit tightly. The shaft on the switch itself is to long, but the switch works fine. You do not even know that knob sticks out further than before. I plugged unit back into house current and tested range element to see if it works. It did so with no problem. I then replaced rear panels and secured all screws back to their original location and that was all there was to it.
No problem. Was a fast and effective installation.
I took new replacement switch and reinstalled the 2 parts of switch and placed back into hole in face panel. I reinserted the 2 front screws that holds the switch in place. I put the selection knob back on. However, the knob does not fit tightly. The shaft on the switch itself is to long, but the switch works fine. You do not even know that knob sticks out further than before. I plugged unit back into house current and tested range element to see if it works. It did so with no problem. I then replaced rear panels and secured all screws back to their original location and that was all there was to it.
No problem. Was a fast and effective installation.
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- Customer:
- Richard from S MILWAUKEE, WI
- Parts Used:
- WP8053834
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Impossible to do by yourself. Make sure that you have a second set of hands.
Put the bottom of the glass in first then put the top half into the brackets in the door handle. Holding it in place with your extra set of hands tighten it down with the two screws from inside the oven door into the back of the handle. The door will be open a lot so be extra careful not to let the door close onto your hands or fingers. Also remember patience is a virtue.
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- Customer:
- George E from SEVIERVILLE, TN
- Parts Used:
- 8184859
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
The part doesn't seem to fit the glass door
I still don't have it back together! The first time we ordered the part the gentleman sent me the trim for the left side which seemed to be fine but while replacing it the old part (right side) broke. Ok. so I called to order same part but for the right side. Well, the lady told me I could only order the oven door trim kit, which seems to be too large. I don't think she understood me. Why the 1st time ordering I could get the left side only now when ordering the right side she says we don't sell it that way. Very confused and still can't use my oven since Dec,19th!!
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- Customer:
- Casey from WARBA, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner would stay on when switch set to low heat
Unplug and pull out range.
Unscrew the back of the range with Phillips #2.
Unplug wiring harness from switch.
Unscrew the switch from the front of the range with P2 driver.
Install and plug in new switch.
Remove the spring steel knob retainer from shaft.
Cut off extra knob shaft with dremel to match others (there is a narrow segment at the proper length).
Reinstall knob retainer, knob, and range panels.
Unscrew the back of the range with Phillips #2.
Unplug wiring harness from switch.
Unscrew the switch from the front of the range with P2 driver.
Install and plug in new switch.
Remove the spring steel knob retainer from shaft.
Cut off extra knob shaft with dremel to match others (there is a narrow segment at the proper length).
Reinstall knob retainer, knob, and range panels.
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