79060071793 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Didn't get repaired because I could not get the right parts to fix it. You would send me a part for the oven. The oven and burner parts are not the same

Repair failed because part did not fit. Offset between top of element and contact prongs was too small, so element could not sit flat.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

I removed the four screws holding the element in place and pulled the element out and disconnected the two wire. Installation was pretty much the reverse of the removal except, when I went to put the two screws holding the element to the top of the oven I discovered the holes were rusted out. I looked for inserts to put in the holes but every time I tried different inserts the holes got bigger. I finally realized the oven is just sheet metal so I moved the bracket about an inch drilled new holes and used self-tapping screws.

First unplug the electricity from the stove. Replacement terminals on back of switch are set different than the originals. So, I took notes (purple wire =P, Black wire=L1, two yellow wires = H1 & H2, and orange wire=L2). Your stove might be different in the color coding. Just take notes. First I unscrewed the screws on the top back plate of the stove. Removed the back plate. Took notes on where the wires went. Removed the wires going to the five terminals. Unscrewed the two screws on front panel of the stove holding the old switch in place. Removed the old switch. Put in the new switch through the back of stove. Determined the length of the control shaft. Take the switch back out. With two pliers on the control shaft, holding the pliers closer to the switch firmly, use the second pliers just past the predetermined breaking point. With the second pliers snap off the control shaft. Be careful not to snap off two much. Place the switch in the proper place and mount to the stove. You may need some parts in the assembly parts package for this. I did not. Inside of the parts package is a set of plastic parts. I selected the part I needed to insert into the control knob for a bushing just to take up space. I placed that part inside of the control knob. I then placed it onto the control shaft. Plug back the wire going to the electric outlet. Instead of unplugging and plugging, you might want to switch off the circuit breaker and switch back on when the job is done. It works!

I just had to plug the new burner plate in the receptical
and it works again very well.

1. First I pulled out the heating element from stovetop and removed old pan (no screws) very simple. 2. Put new pan in and inserted the heating element back in place.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

replaced drip pans due to rust

Merely removed the old drip trays and replaced them with the new ones I ordered.

Replaced drip pans and now my elements sit level!

took out old element put in new one and oven works as good as new

I made a 4' h 3.5' w and 7.5' long powder / ceramic coat oven capable of 700 degrees f. the elements were chosen due to their size and capabilty. I am useing -5- 2950watt elements split on 2 40 amp 120v coil contactors regulated with a PID and thermocouople.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

I previously replaced terminal blocks and elements so the infinite switch was the last stop before new purchase. I reviewed the online repair video. Unplugged the range and removed the three screws from the rear of the control panel. I Removed the knobs then removed two screws to release the front plate behind the knobs. I removed the two screws securing switch #1 and compaired to the new parts before removing wires. Wire locations were labled the same but in different sequence. I located the knob adapter for my knobs and set them asside. At first I thought the rod coming out of the new switch was too long and then figured out that the indentions allong the rod were to be broken off to the correct length. ( re-reading the included instructions was nearly useless - - not in plain language ) I used a pair of vice-grips clamped just below the length of rod I wanted to break off and it snapped off easily and cleanly for the most part. ( A word to the wise, this is some really soft metal at the breaks along the rod. I attempted a second break on one switch after mounting in the control panel and the thing broke off at the short end - - scary ) luckily I was still able to use it with my knobs and adapters. I relocated the switch wires to the new switch one at a time matching label to label ( L1, L2, H1, H2, P) then mounted the new switch into the control panel. I re-assembled the range and it is heating better than ever. Well worth the effort and minimal expense compared to a service call or replacement range.