66575812001 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

Repair relativley easy only needed phillips screwdriver to complete repair.

First remove the oven racks and the burner cover in the bottom of the oven. There are two phillips screws near the back. Loosen the screws but it is not necessary to completely remove them. Pull out the bottom cover and this will expose the burner. There is one phillips screw at the front of the oven and one at the back. Remove these screws and set aside. You should be able to remove the burner and unplug the wire connected to it. Replace with a new burner in the reverse order. Plug in the wire and make sure the new burner is seated properly over the gas valve. It lines up pretty easily. Put the rear screw back in but be careful not to drop it into the hole otherwise you will have to use a magnet to retrieve it or pull the oven out because it will be on the floor. Replace the front screw and put everything else back together. Pretty easy job

Remove oven racks. Remove bottom of oven. Mine was held in place by two large screws in the back part of the oven. They did not screw into anything. Lift out bottom from the rear. Remove burner cover plate by lifting the front and pulling out. Mine was not screwed in. The igniter is mounted on the burner and held by two 5/16 small bolts. The top one is easily accessible. The bottom is a real witch. You need 1/4inch socket set with universal connector to remove. There is a single wire attached to igniter by a wire clip. The wire is accessible by removing the bottom pan storage drawer under the oven door. Unclip the old attach the new. Screw two small bolts back in and replace things you took out. TURN GAS AND ELECTRICITY OFF BEFORE YOU BEGIN. Parts select should allow the igniter to be sold separately rather than connected to the burner. I only replaced the igniter. Replacing the burner would be a real chore.

Removed the old burner and instlled the new one. It works great and I am a hero!

The kit was not supposed to fit my particular model but I felt the picture was exact and took a chance and had it sent. It was a perfect fit and was easy to assemble and looks like a new stove. I paid one third of the cost estimates that I got from local appliance centers and even other on line sites. I'm very please with the product and the delivery was more than prompt!! I couldn't believe the service!!! Thanks!!

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

First make sure it is the gas valve not the ignitor. If the clicking sound still happens then the ignitor is fine, no clicking means ignitor may be broke and try to fix that first because it is cheaper. For us I knew it was the valve because the ignitor still clicked and the broil and top elements still worked. After the part arrived I turned off the gas and pulled the power to the oven. Disassembled all the components taking pictures along the way to remember what it looked like to go back together. Installed the new valve and use yellow gas tephlon tape at the seals. Put components back in reverse order. Run the top elements first to get gas in all the gas lines and remove the air. At this point the oven bakes again.

Excellent delivery.

Lifted the top disconnected the old valve and replaced with a new one.I believe the valve should have been shipped with two gaskets,. One for the bottom and another for the top. I reused the old one on the top with no problem but would have preferred a new one.

removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!

I broke the old trim when cleaning. New trim kit went together great. No screws needed because of new design. Best tip I can give is that the side trim pieces around the oven door go behind the glass on the door not in front of the glass. Visual instructions would be great.

Took off outer trim. Put new glass in and returned trim. Very easy, looks great.