36261741001 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Replaced clock/timer from Part Select. Direct replacement and new unit works great.

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

Watched video,and used it as guideline.Biggest problem was removing tape from old wires.

ordered part shut electricity off took out 2 screws took of connectors put in new element replaced connectors replaced screws turn on elec started cooking

Ordered new parts. Received email with tracking number. Parts arrived as promised. Turned off power at breaker (!). Removed burners and pans. Lifted the lid of the range. Inspected the plugs and discovered one had come loose from bracket and was not in straight. Reset plug in bracket. While the lid was open, placed the drip bowl in opening and installed the burner and made sure the burner was laying properly in the drip bowl. Repeat for each. Perfect fit, If done properly, the small burners should lay down flat and not rock back and forth. I have seen complaints about rocking, and experienced some of it on one burner. Make sure the heating element is set in the plug well and it should work. A little patience may be required to get it just right. Everything lays flat and the stove looks new again. I have purchased from Part Select on other projects including a dryer rebuild and a new face plate for this range. Great products, reasonable prices, wonderful tutorial videos and good service.

I removed the face of the range back. I did not need to remove the three screws in the back like I thought - just the two torx in the front panel. 2) I lifted the clock face assembly out and up. 3) Look at the very simple wiring. Mine had white and red wire coming out of the "power block". 4) I looked at the old circuit board to see which is line and which was neutral. There was no designation. 5) i removed existing wires. 6) I unscrewed the old clock from its moorings, and saved screws. 7) I made sure the up/down orientation of the new clock was the same as the old one. There is an "up" word on the new circuit board, but with the clock upside down, make sure the buttons are correct. BTW, I had to affix the new clockl/timer cover plate onto the replacement clock, using that "up" word on the new circuit board to orient it. 8) I attached the Red wire to the Line connector on the new circuit board, and the White wire to the prong labelled neutral. 9) I used the old screws to secure the new clock to the range back. 19) There was an extension wire included with the new clock. I did not need to use it. 11) I wrestled the clock/timer back into the range itself, using the two torx I removed to secure it. 11) The new buttons on the left (Timer and Clock) are reversed, so now the Timer is the top butting and the bottom now sets the clock. 12) I do not like the feel and action of the new buttons. They are very stiff, and not particularly easy to push.

Used the TS guide, because I had no idea what the problem was. That was easy step by step. Thanks. Gave me a list of two parts that could fix the problem. Picked the higher percentage part (97%). Followed the simple install instructions and it was successful. One problem I did encounter was the two wires that it connected to were short. Removed the back center plate to gain access to the wires. I was able to extend them enough to make the connections to the bake element. If not for that the repair would have only taken maybe 10 minute's.

Followed the video supplied with the email on the parts order form. Biggest problem was pulling the range out from the wall, the repairs went without a hitch. The PartsSelect video was a great help showing the short cut to getting the new wires in by using the old wires as a pull wire.

I pulled the range out, unplugged it, took the back off, unplugged the old terminal block and removed it. Attached the new block and ran the wires through to the back and plugged them in. Reattached the cover on the back of the range, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into place.

Started off with a philips screw driver,and a cold beer.Removed the cover for the clock/timer. Removed the clock with a plain screw driver.Reversed the order of removal including another cold beer.Just think,I could become a repairman,with enough cold beer.

Removed element with 1/4 " nut driver, unhooked element,started to install new element and discovered the wires were too short and had to remove cover on the back to replace wires on the new element. The wires on my range were not as long as the ones showed on the video.It was still an easy repair and the delivery time was less than 2 days. excellent service. Thanks

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.

Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.

After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.

I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.