79095652000 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed old switch, moved the one wire to the same pin on new very cheaply made but expensive made in Mexico switch, replaced switch, pugged range back in too AC, operated new switch, created sparks and smoke. Element now glows to max immediately when turned on. Replaced stove problem gone!

Open the door and slide in the new rack.

Used a slot screwdriver to pry the old guide...clipped the new guide into its place.

I watched the video on how to do it

Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.

1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.

Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

The drawer under the oven had been aggravating me for some time. It was titled and did not close right. Finally, I took it out to see what the problem was and noticed that the glides were broken. I googled the model no. of the stove (figuring I would have no luck) and to my great relief was directed to this EXCELLENT site. I ordered the new drawer glides within minutes and they were literally delivered the next day. Snapped right in, fixed, happy!! It's times like this when I can't figure out how we all lived without the internet!

Just use flat screwdriver to press on clip and just squeeze it in

After researching on what exactly to call the part, which was a front drawer glide. I found this out by watching the video. It showed me exactly what I needed and what it looked like. I run to the oven to look at the other one, to make sure thats what I needed, and it looked like the part that I needed (mind you I am a female, and not a repair person), so this video helped me out alot. When the part arrived, I knew how to take the drawer out, and easily snapped the little plastic glide in to place, and slipped the drawer back on the gliders, and it worked perfect, so proud of myself, that I done it by myself, with no help from husband. I bragged and bragged on myself with a big pat on my own back, thanks Part Select, I know what to do when it happens again. Its my fault cause it broke, cause I overload the drawer with pots and pans LOL!!! Brenda Dixon

I removed the drawer, removed and replaced the guides on both sides in the front and replaced the drawer.

Removed the drawer. Inserted the new glide tab into a hole in the side. Inserted the drawer slides in the the glide. Closed drawer--done! Works fine. Probably only 5-10 minutes.