66575133301 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I used the allen wrenches to block the hinges, removed the oven door and used the kitchen counter for a work station. I removed the trim piece at the bottom which released the side trim and oven glass front, and then reversed the procedure. It took more time to clean things than to do the exchange. My only issue is with Fed Ex who delived the first trim piece bent in the middle inside a crushed box. Part Select had another part sent the same day after I called them.

removed the old ones.then installed the new ones.

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

Took off the screws on the back of the stove and took out the sensor, and put in the new one.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

oven would not light but broiler and range top would. removed oven racks. removed 2 finger tight screws on oven pan floor and pulled up oven floor. also removed storage drawer under oven- also 2 screws. now your oven should look like the inside of your gas grill. removed 2 more screws on burner plate and removed plate. unplugged igniter and 2 screws holding igniter. replaced igniter and put together in reverse order. oven now works perfectly

Remove the plug from outlet then shutoff gas. Remove the 10 screws hold the back panel of the oven. Unclip the connector of the temperature sensor from the main line. Pull the sensor straightout. Reverse the process install the new sensor. Couldn't be any easier. Oven working great. Calling in a reapairman would have cost $200 for parts and labor.

Pulled shelves out removed bottom plate of oven remove heat shield cover removed screws had to remove bottom drawer disconnect wire from bottom of igniter and remove from top side . Replaced by reversing steps.

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.

Lifted the top disconnected the old valve and replaced with a new one.I believe the valve should have been shipped with two gaskets,. One for the bottom and another for the top. I reused the old one on the top with no problem but would have preferred a new one.

We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.

Removed door per instructions in manual. Removed racks and storage drawer per manual. Removed two phillips head screws holding bottom pan and removed pan. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter tube (#12) and withdrew tube from the cavity. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter and bracket to the tube. Unplugged elcetrical connection to igniter and installed new igniter in reverse order. Too bad the igniter wasn't the problem.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.