91146569097 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Pull out oven and unplug from 220 outlet. Remove rear upper/lower cover (4 screws), Remove two wires from rear of element. From front, open oven door, remove two screws and pull out old element.
Install new element by reversing above sequence. Then test and push oven back in place. Easy!

1)Unscrewed old baking element from wall of oven
2)Detached old baking element from wires
3)Attached new baking element to wires
4)Screwed new baking element to wall of oven
5)Turned on oven

Basically very easy. Be sure to follow suggested safe practices - DO shut off the circuit breaker to the unit BEFORE starting (I didn't to start with, shorted out the heater leads - dumb on my part). Just removed the burned out element by removing the 2 screws using a nutdriver, pulled the element out, and slipped off the crimp fittings. Reverse steps to install replacement. The crimp fittings were stubborn coming off the old one, so it took longer than expected. Otherwise, easy peasy.

Flipped off the circuit breaker first. Unscrewed the two screws holding the element in place. Pulled out about 4-5 inches. Tried several times to pull apart the connections, finally got 'em - don't give up (I must have weak fingers). Then plugged in the new element, shoved the wires back in, screwed it back in place, flipped circuit breaker back on, turned the oven on.... made brownies (o:

I removed two small screws located on the underside of the control panel. I then rotated the bottom of the control panel up and dislodged the few connections at top back of control panel. The control panel became loose enough to lay forward exposing the inner control switches. The old problem switch wiring was removed one by one and placed in the same spot on the new switch. The old switch was then removed by pulling off the front control knob and then unscrewing two screws holding the old switch in place. Then the new switch was installed exactly as the old switch was removed.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires,held wires one at a time so tehy wouln't slip back into rear holes in oven, slid off connector tabs and pushed on to replacement unit...)

First turned off the power to the stove at the breaker panel, thenI removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Disconnecting/reconnecting the "clips" was the only difficult part because they did not slip off/on easily. Replaced the element in the oven, replaced the screws...good to go!

Best part of buying from Parts Select was that they shipped the part the same day I ordered it, which was the Friday after Christmas. Competitor would not have shipped till the following Monday and we needed the oven ASAP!

I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.

I turned off the main power! Then unscrewed the back cover unhooked the wires and unscrewed the coil inside of the oven and pulled it out. My 10yr old son and I measured it and went online to order the part. I first did go into BestBuy and they didn't have the part (But they tried to sale me a new oven!) LOL Now who said a newly divorced mom couldn't fix her own oven! My Tech Support skills came in handy! Women Rock! LOL

Safety first: Turn range circuit breaker to off position. Turn a surface unit [burner] to the on position ,if no light exists power has been removed. Turn surface unit to off position. To remove bake unit. With a 1/4 socket driver remove two self tapping screws and gently pull out on the bake unit until you can access the slide on terninals. Careful lenth of wire is limited. Remove slide on terminals two each [2] . Install new bake unit in reverse order . Restore power

Bent the tips so the phillament can fit inside the oven.

I verified the parts that were sent to me to make sure they were what I needed. I read the instructions for the replacement of the new parts. I then moved the stove out away from the wall to access the back plate where the burner connections are located. I removed the cover plate to expose the connections. I then traced out the wires from the burner that needed to be replaced to the connections on the back panel. I disconnected the appropriate wires and tied them off on both ends because it was difficult to try and weave the old wires out and the new wires through the original channel they were running through. I removed the damaged ceramic housing and installed the new ceramic housing along with the new large burner ring. I then routed the new wires through the stove to the back connection panel and plugged them into the same positions as the old wires occupied. I then wrapped up the excess cable and tied it off and stored it inside the rear panel per the instructions. I tie wrapped the new cable along the route of the existing channel of wires from the front to the rear and then replced the back panel and secured it with the screws. I pushed the stove back to it's original position. I then tuned on the rear burner to see if was working properly, and it heated up fine.

I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the burner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.