36291200103 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Started off with a philips screw driver,and a cold beer.Removed the cover for the clock/timer. Removed the clock with a plain screw driver.Reversed the order of removal including another cold beer.Just think,I could become a repairman,with enough cold beer.

Ordered new parts. Received email with tracking number. Parts arrived as promised. Turned off power at breaker (!). Removed burners and pans. Lifted the lid of the range. Inspected the plugs and discovered one had come loose from bracket and was not in straight. Reset plug in bracket. While the lid was open, placed the drip bowl in opening and installed the burner and made sure the burner was laying properly in the drip bowl. Repeat for each. Perfect fit, If done properly, the small burners should lay down flat and not rock back and forth. I have seen complaints about rocking, and experienced some of it on one burner. Make sure the heating element is set in the plug well and it should work. A little patience may be required to get it just right. Everything lays flat and the stove looks new again. I have purchased from Part Select on other projects including a dryer rebuild and a new face plate for this range. Great products, reasonable prices, wonderful tutorial videos and good service.

I removed the face of the range back. I did not need to remove the three screws in the back like I thought - just the two torx in the front panel. 2) I lifted the clock face assembly out and up. 3) Look at the very simple wiring. Mine had white and red wire coming out of the "power block". 4) I looked at the old circuit board to see which is line and which was neutral. There was no designation. 5) i removed existing wires. 6) I unscrewed the old clock from its moorings, and saved screws. 7) I made sure the up/down orientation of the new clock was the same as the old one. There is an "up" word on the new circuit board, but with the clock upside down, make sure the buttons are correct. BTW, I had to affix the new clockl/timer cover plate onto the replacement clock, using that "up" word on the new circuit board to orient it. 8) I attached the Red wire to the Line connector on the new circuit board, and the White wire to the prong labelled neutral. 9) I used the old screws to secure the new clock to the range back. 19) There was an extension wire included with the new clock. I did not need to use it. 11) I wrestled the clock/timer back into the range itself, using the two torx I removed to secure it. 11) The new buttons on the left (Timer and Clock) are reversed, so now the Timer is the top butting and the bottom now sets the clock. 12) I do not like the feel and action of the new buttons. They are very stiff, and not particularly easy to push.

Followed the video supplied with the email on the parts order form. Biggest problem was pulling the range out from the wall, the repairs went without a hitch. The PartsSelect video was a great help showing the short cut to getting the new wires in by using the old wires as a pull wire.

I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.

Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.

After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.

The repair was somewhat easy. The replacement elements are pushon type. The only thing is that the G.E. Hotpoint wire on the right side of the bake element is short. Be extra careful to not have it go back into the back oven wall or you will have to take the back cover plate (Pull out the range, remove the back cover using a nut driver or a magnetic tip srewdriver with the bit removed works[Wires are right there]. This is as easy a job as can be.

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy

Turn off power to oven. Removed the rack. used a 1/4" nut driver and removed the two screws holding the element to back of oven. Slid the element out, unhook the two wires clipped to the end of the element. Replaced it with the new element, installing it in reverse. Took about 15 min. Rememer to turn off power to oven before attempting to work on it.

Removed old socket, I had replaced with a aftermarket that really did not work well. When I recieved the terminal block kit from your company it was the proper kit. Service was better than expected, part and price was great and it took very little time ti install. Thank you.

My oven is wired into the wall so I had to cut the power off at the fuse box. The hardest part was pulling the stove/oven away from the wall to see if it was a simple plug in or wired in. I lifted bottom drawer out so I could get leverage and lifted the entire unit so I could put the front feet on the soft pads. It slid away from the wall easily. I found a socket that fit the screws on the plate holding the broken element and unscrewed it, saving the screws. A gently tug on the element pulled the attached ends through the hole. The tip of the ends were attached to the wall wiring by a small sliding metal clip. I carefully pulled the ends apart. One was hard to get apart to I had to push it with the tip of a knife. Once the old was off the new was super easy to put back on. Side the tips to the clips, screw the plate in place and push the oven back in place. Flip your fuses and turn on the oven. Yeah!

Replaced clock/timer from Part Select. Direct replacement and new unit works great.

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!

unplugged old block from both sides, ran new wire and plugged new wire to both ends and presto it worked, thanks for making it easy to fix. Thanks- Michael J Dumas