1037258510 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Good friend said he could do it no problem at all!!!!!

I removed the bottom drawer, disconnected the wires and then using the socket driver removed the screws holding the burner in place from below. I then unscrewed the bottom plate of the oven from the top so I could get to the burner. I unscrewed the one screw still holding the burner in place. Disconnected the old igniter and then cut the cables at an appropriate length so I could re-use the connectors on new igniter. Spliced together using wire nuts provided, mounted new igniter to burner, put it all back together and it fired up like it was new.

I removed the oven grates and removed 2 screws that held the bottom pan in the oven to get easy access to the burner and igniter. Remove 2 screws that held the burner in place. Removed wire nuts. Removing burner allowed easy access to fasteners holding ignitre in place. Confirmed that the igniter was bad by checking the continuity. Ordered part later in the evening from parts select. Part was here 2nd morning after I ordered it. Installed, and checked to make sure igniter wasworking properely. When check confirmed igniter was working, replace oven components. Saved myself $100 or more by doing it myself rather than having a repairman out.

Removed bottom tray of oven, removed ignighter, unplug two wires.

Replaced the old igniter with new one in 15 minutes. Popped the door off, took the bottom plate off, unscrewed the igniter and disconnected wires. Put the new igniter in and reversed the steps.....piece o'cake! Works great now!

Removed oven racks
Remove oven bottom
Remove 2 screws holding the glow coil onto the burner
Install the new glow coil with the furnished screws
Reinstalled the 2 wires back where you took them off

I removed the bottom drawer from the oven, took my handy nut driver out and removed two screws from the round igniter. When it was loose from the oven I removed the two wire nuts conecting it to the power sourse, I reversed the process and it was working again. One thing did go wrong my wife made me clean the oven that wasn't part of my plan :)

removed screw from heat sheild, unpluged igniter and tested for 110v on wires feeding igniter (ok). removed bad igniter,ordered new one and installed with 2 - 1/4in. hex head screws. cut old male and female plug ends off old igniter, and wirenutted onto new igniter. turned on oven and it works fine. but noticed after oven burner lights, igniter stays on the whole time oven is on. I would think that it should go off when burner lites. Does anyone know if this is normal operation?

simple remove & replace. 2 min job. Couldn't be happier.

The stories posted on your web page are great - only improvement would to add a schematic of the parts being removed - no issues were encountered - great service by the way - part arrived the next day - a Saturday!

John M.

I took the old igniter out and replaced it with a new one.

To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with excellent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald

First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy process(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.

Removed the back part of the stove to reveal the wires connected to the igniter. Removed the wire nuts and removed the igniter. Reused the old bracket to mount the new part. Attached the wire nuts and replaced the back parts of the stove. Worked like a charm.

There are other descriptions here, but here's my story. I pulled the oven door off (pull straight up on it, it will come off) and removed the bottom warming drawer (there are plastic tabs on the outside of each side of the drawer--slide them and pull, several times on each side). I turned off the gas from behind the stove and unplugged the range, undid two screws at the back of the oven floor and lifted it forward and up. The burner is visible, but here is the hard part. The bolts holding the ignitor are underneath it and angled such that it is almost impossible to get any type of tool near them. I have small hands, and that helped. The screws are a bolt-head type or hex head, and I found that a one quarter inch open end wrench sort of fit. 6mm was too small and 7mm was too large. I managed to get the screws loosened after much struggling and manuvering, with half my body inside the oven, and once it was out, I was able to reach in from where the warming drawer was and unscrew the two wire leads attached from the ignitor to the power. They are held by plastic screwcaps. The reverse process was self explanatory, except that you should put the new ignitor in the oven and feed the wires down through the back panel, then attach the screwcaps to join the wires to the leads. Then go back in the oven and attach the ignitor, back screw first, and tighten it all the way, since you may not be able to reach it once the front screw is in. Also, use the screws that come with the new ignitor, since they are easier to start than the old ones. Tighten the screws as tight as you can get them so the ignitor doesn't wiggle, then turn the gas back on and plug it in, and test it before you put it back to gether. Mine worked, but it was a pain to do, kind of like working on an old car that wasn't designed to be fixed easily. Good luck.