790468140 Kenmore Range - Instructions

replaced it

After trying to unscrew a plate on the side, I found that would NOT work at all, the side panel of the stove was behind it. I found a tab that cut-out on 3 sides just above the location of the recepticle, and simply bent that tab out, pulled out the old recepticle, slid in the new recipticle, and put in the screws and then bent back the tab. It was sooo easy once I found that. I repeated in on the other side.

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

Took 6 screws out holding the top on from the sides. Lifted the top front, popped out the spark module, Took 6wires off & reversed the processed to install the new one. I was really amazed when I ordered it Wednesday and it arrived on Friday. Believe me I bookmarked this site.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Easy as 1-2-3

Took a screwdriver and removed screws attaching the element to the back of oven. Disconnectec the wires from the old bake element. Replaced the new reversing the process. Very easy.

First. shut off the power!!! Remove the two screws holding the coil. Next- slightly pull remaining wire to access the plugs. Unplug the wires, remove old coil, replace and plug in the new... Replace two screws.... Turn power on and....... Start cooking! EASY!

Square drive screws used throughout the oven since its manufactured in Canada. Shut power down to the range. Element fastener plate removed and 2 electrical terminals loosened. Used a pair of hemostats to hold on to the wires so as not to lose them to the interior back of the oven which was loaded with insulation. Connected the 2 wires to the new element, screwed the element fastening plate with element back to the back of the oven wall. Turned power back on and voila, I was back in business.

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.

repair was pretty simple. i pulled stove out from cabinet and unplugged it. Then i removed the screws that hold the face panel in place and gently slid out panel as far as i could without damaging wires. i had to remove the small switches that control the two two size burners as well as one thermostat on the right side so i can access the nuts holding the plastic end caps in place. i diagramed the color coded wires so i didnt mix them up.took off the old end caps replaced with new caps and put back together.. took about a half hour as this was my first time inside the guts of this stove.. stove is baack in place and as good as new again.

The repair went relatively easy. I even cleaned all the layers of parts when they were removed from the glass panel. I have to thank the excellent customer service and super fast delivery. Overall a quite easy task and $$ saving as well!

Started with three screws on outer edge of door, which separated inner and outer door parts exposing the first set of screws on first piece of glass. There are four panes including inner and outer with two between. Keep track of the screws, be careful removing and replacing glass panes (i put mat down to rest glass on)and with nothing more than a screwdriver and windex to remove fingerprints etc from replaced glass, it was a breeze. Good luck! - FK, Bahamas

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!