91193601000 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.

repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connection..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..

1. Removed the oven door -- this is a little tricky -- you need to lift to small metal covers on the hinges, then pull the door up and out from the broil (half open position). Replace the door the same way. It is important to insert the hinges with the door in the "broil" position, and after verifying that the door is aligned and closes normally -- then lift hinge covers to lock in place.

2. After door is removed the glass assembly can be removed and replaced by unscrewing two long (2-3 inch long) screws at the top. And three hex head screws at the bottom of the door. Note -- there is no need to removed the six screws (3 either side) on th ebottom of the door -- because these only hold the hinges to the door. The other 5 screws that you do need to remove actually hold the two halves of the door together.

3. Replace glass assembly and reassemble.

It is not so hard but you need "star" screwdrivers for the long screws... (not philips -- but 6-pointed stars), and a socket wrench is useful for the bottom 3 hex head screws...

If I were to do again it would only take me 15 minutes.... but I messed up by removing the hinges unnecessarily so it took me an hour.

My husband had turned the oven on to cook something and didn't know that I have a plastic tray in there. Well, needless to say I needed to get some new oven racks. I tried to get them through the manufacturer (GE). They were 68$ each. I thought that was a bit steep, so I looked online. I decided to order through PartsSelect. Well...they can 2 days later (the week before Christmas!!)and were a PERFECT fit.
Between the price, shipping speed and quality I will
definitely buy from again and recommend this site to everyone I know!!!!

Oh yeah, I work for Sears too. we have access to all sorts of parts....this site is the BEST for prices and delivery speed!!!!

unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.

I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed the back panel in place.

The old glass had shattered so I had to clean up the glass fragments from the door including the track where the replacement glass fits. Also, I removed the complete oven door from the stove so I could lay it on the table and work with it better. I had to purchase a star shaped bit in order to remove the two long screws located on the inside of the door. These screws hold the door glass assembly to the oven door. After those two screws were removed, I could get to the remaining interior screws which completely removed the door glass frame from the oven. Once the door glass frame was removed, I placed the new glass into the track and reassembled the frame onto the oven door. Then I reattached the oven door to the range. Oh, by the way, the door is removed from the range by flipping a latch (from front to back) on either side of the door. Then you can remove the door. To put the door back on the stove, just insert the pertruding pieces and flip the lever from back to front (reverse order from how it was removed). You may have to jiggle it a couple of times to get it back into the slot correctly.
I had to learn how to do this as I went along.

Per the instructions included with part.

removed 2 screws that mounted element. disconnected 2 wires, reconnected wires remounted the element. Done in 5 minutes.

first slide out range from wall and unplug it. then remove the rear panel, it is about 6 or 8 1/4" screws. remove the selector knob on the front of range and then remove the two philips head screws. this is how you remove the burner controller. hold the new controller next to the od one and one by one take the wires off the old one and put them on the new one. re-assemble and you are good to go.

Charles from Sharon MA 1/14/09 has a pretty good description of what needs to be done. My model must be a little different than Charles, so I'll just tell you about the differences.

The locks that hold the hinges in place on the oven had to be flipped DOWN not UP. They are small rectangular metal brackets with a little open "notch" on the top where you can stick a small screwdriver to pry them down.

I found that I DID have to remove the six small screws (three on each hinge) that hold the hinges in place as they also went through both the inner and outer door panels.

Note that the glass assembly has a vented frame. Note that there are vents on the TOP of the frame but not the bottom - i.e. heat rises. Take care not to put the glass assembly in upside down.

I used a screwdriver and pliers. A nut driver would have been helpful. Oven door is removeable for cleaning and maintenance, but it's heavy and awkward. It has to be laid face-side down to disassemble, so have a protected tabletop ready to avoid scratches. Side trim pieces have to come off to get access to bottom trim mounting screws.

Took old racks out, slid new ones in....exact match at a huge savings from what GE wanted per rack.
Found the company through a Google search, have it bookmarked and will be back if I need something from them.

The known problem: a short occured between the surface element and the INF switch. After replacing the wire between the surface element and INF switch. The surface indicator light remained on - indicating a power surge/spike. Prior to removing the old INF switch I disconnected the wires from the old switch one at a time and plugged each into the new switch terminals. Then I removed the knob from the front of the control panel and the 2 screws holding the old INF switch in place. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new switch. Reinstalling the 2 screws and the knob. Surface indicator light was no longer illuminated and surface element works fine.

First I had to remove the oven ceiling screws bracing the broiler element. Second I removed the screws holding the connectors at the back of the oven before I could disconnect the two wires ( which were awkward for me to get to because I am 5'2" but was able to reach without removing the oven door).

I reconnected the two connectors and screwed the brace into the back of the oven. Then replaced the screws into the ceiling of the oven to hold the unit in place.

I was very pleased to have been able to do this project on my own and the broiler is working fine.