79096519400 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Started by replacing element which was clearly broken. Still no heat. So then I changed the oven sensor. Was disappointed that when I received the sensor I had to cut and splice the connector that was on it with the old one that came off the old sensor. Did that and still no heat so I had to buy a new clock/timer. Went to another store for that because of the connector not being the right type and there was no picture of the clock/timer like the other website. Overall ok, normall troubleshooting steps, just wish I didn't have to cut and splice the connector on the new sensor I purchased from here.

Removed control panel cover. Verified switch was bad with ohmmeter. Removed and replaced infinite switch. Removed and replaced board (simmer control) from back side of range. Need to reuse standoffs when replacing board. Used wiring diagram to verify correct installation of board and switch. Replaced cover. Everything is working fine since.

i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.

My problem with the door was a bit serious because not only would I lose heat from the top of the door, but could not use the convection oven unless the door closed tightly.

However, the repair could not have gone easier. The instructions were very simple and totally accurate. I would suggest that anyone doing this job with a door that has full glass across the front should have a helper neaby. The door is quite heavy.

This probably the easiest repair job I have ever done, and I have done many.

Removed the door and the inner panel of the door and replaced the hinges. Replaced the screws and put the oven door back on. It closes tight now just like new. I have now ordered the replacement cap so my oven looks like new again.

I only have one suggestion to make the installation easier. If the manufacturer would prethread the holes in the new parts, it would save time from having to prethread the holes with the screws, prior to installing them.

After 15 minutes of frustration and back breaking I removed the oven door and had much better access to the panel, from there on it was all down hill.

Sensor very accessible. Pull off the back panel, disconect the sensor and slide out from back of oven. The original plug was cut off the sensor, as well as the new one to get the proper connector type on the new sensor. Soldered and heat shrink, and presto we had our new sensor ready for install. Install was about 5 minutes which included putting the back panel on the range. Pretty easy and works like new. Total time for project was about 20 minutes.

The top of the door trim broke causing the side and glass to be loose. Easy fix by removing the broken trim and installing the new one.

Approximately 2 minutes to replace.

First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connect them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.

Removed back off of stove. Removed two screws that held in the switch, removed the wires that were connected to the switch and replaced the part.

At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.

I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.

Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.

Replaced the dual element switch and that fixed it up

Went very well and it works!