36273222205 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Turned off circuit breaker to stove, remove top panel and then the old control module and installed replacement. Power back on and top panel reinstalled. Easy!!! And Everything works like new!!!

Could not have been simpler. Burner head dropped into place and was held in place by gravity. Not possible for part to go in incorrectly.

Turned off circuit breaker, Then pulled out range, straight out and away from wall and cabinets. Layed braket on flooring and moved stove back in to make certain it aligned with range rear stands. Moved range back out, marked holes in braket, screwed in screws to anchor bracket. Pushed range back into placed against wall. Tried to |"tilt" range by pulling down on door after opened - range was held in place sre

Simple to correct 1. lift off grate 2. lift off burner cover 3. lift off old burner. 4. replace burner, cover and grate. took 10 seconds. burner works perfect

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

changed old burner tube , with new equipment. thanks to PartSelect.

unplug power and turn off gas/// had to remove all star screws on top/remove ign wire from each burnner/now remove stove top/ adj wrench and remove nuts from the front nobs and relace with new front orifice tubes NOTE: Front orifice tube is the leftside. Front orifice HOLDER is the right side. put back top, open front to put hand in to make adjustments to ign wires close top and reinstall star screws and using finger to hold and make adjustments on top now turn power and gas on. I use soapwater to test for leaks/ leo gubin

Very easy repair! Removed lower oven pan/ plate. Removed burner tube with 3 screws, removed igniter and reversed to reinstall!

Unplugged stove. Removed the top rear panel to see where the thermostat cable fed into the oven. Left the current cable in place and fed new cable along side the old one. Pulled out the old cable once new one was installed. Attached wires to new thermostat and installed. Turned oven on to test. Everything went great.

Opened up the top of the stove using a screwdriver. Lifted it up about 3 inches and legs popped out on each corner and held it in that position. Traced the wire to the back and down to the oven. Pulled new thermostat along that route. When I got to the back it was a little tricky moving the thicker end around and down into the hole without removing anything from the back- but I did manage to do it. I then unhooked old thermostat from 2 clips, inserted new one and then went to the front and unsrewed the 2 small screws behind the oven control knob. Magnetic bit on screwdriver is a must! Pulled it back and removed wires one at atime and put onto new unit, then screwed it back in place and replaced knob. Plugged it in and turned it on. It came on ,stayed lit. Turned it off and it stayed lit- surprised me. . . . . . 25 Seconds or so and it went out. . . . . Job done!!

Husband actually did the repair, It went really well except he forgot to remove the heat shield from the old part to attach to the new bottom. (His mistake!)

I read the instructions from other peoples repairs. One note: unplug stove, and turn gas off, remember where wires go. I didnt have to remove top of stove completly.

Cut off the power. unscrewed the cover. fed the new thermostat inside the over and rescrewed. Feeding the line was the most time consuming finding the hole to insert it in the back of the oven.

First of all I had to find the right part from Partselect, which was very easy, delivery was fantastically fast even tho I didn`t order special delivery. After reading installation suggestions on the website, it was simple, open the top, disconnect the burners, removed the thermo from the inside. The only hard part was threading the sensor through the correct hole. I had to remove a couple of cover plates to see where the hole was. Put it back together, lit the oven and the temps were correct, as shown by an oven thermometer.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.