79075904993 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- James from Clarence, NY
- Parts Used:
- 5304497424
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
error sensor on display when oven was used
I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com!
Jim
Jim
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- Customer:
- Michael from SHELBYVILLE, TN
- Parts Used:
- 316011200
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
bad igniter electrode on rear left burner
If you intend to replace the igniter electrode ( part no. PS436633), purchase a minimum of twelve (12) top burner mounting screws ( part no. PS437925).
I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.
After time, the heads of the mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.
Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.
First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.
To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).
Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.
I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.
To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.
If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.
I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.
I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.
The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).
Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).
If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.
Hope this helps.
I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.
After time, the heads of the mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.
Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.
First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.
To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).
Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.
I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.
To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.
If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.
I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.
I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.
The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).
Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).
If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.
Hope this helps.
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- Customer:
- Wendell from Ocala, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316067902
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven racks rusted
Ordered new racks and replaced them.
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- Customer:
- carlton from crescent city, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316036300
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The latch for locking the oven during the self-cleaning cycle was broke and would not lock
I first lifted the top of the stove up where the burners are then removed 7 philips head screws plus the 2 screws that hold the latch in place, which is just above the oven door. I pulled the old latch off the rod that goes to the lock motor.I hen put the new latch in and replced all the screws. Turned the self-cleaning cycle on and it worked perfectly.Thanks to the help of repair guy at Parts Select and the pictures made the repair simple and fast. Thank You Patrs Select
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- Customer:
- ANGELA from MEBANE, NC
- Parts Used:
- 316538904
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Refrigerator Light bulb went out
I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.
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- Customer:
- Leslie from Warsaw, VA
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken lens over oven light
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
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- Customer:
- Garland Futrell from CHESAPEAKE, VA
- Parts Used:
- 5304503232
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Broken ; oven door inner glass
Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.
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- Customer:
- Charles from OMAHA, NE
- Parts Used:
- 318228310
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lenses wore down and broke off making the actual indicator lights fall down behind the control panel since the lights connect to the lens.
Pulled stove out and unplugged it.
Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel.
Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others.
Replace back cover.
Plug stove back in and slide back into place.
There are you tube videos out there to help you.
Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel.
Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others.
Replace back cover.
Plug stove back in and slide back into place.
There are you tube videos out there to help you.
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- Customer:
- Phyllis from GAINESVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
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- Customer:
- Lawrence from Elmira, NY
- Parts Used:
- 316067902
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
replacing oven racks
The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)
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- Customer:
- James from PAINESVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 316067902
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old racks had melted plastic on them.
It was a replace racks not repair. No problem
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- Customer:
- Alan from SAN MATEO, CA
- Parts Used:
- 316538904
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Repaired Oven Range Light Bulb
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
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- Customer:
- Earl from ALLIANCE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 5304505695
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Top burners were not lighting without a match
Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly
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- Customer:
- Larry from COZAD, NE
- Parts Used:
- 5304524341
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Lens cover for the oven light
Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.
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- Customer:
- Marilyn from Clearwater, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316067902
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
I forgot to remove something I had saved in the oven, planning to remove it before using the range.
Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson
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