2783018891 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the bottom drawer, disconnected the wires and then using the socket driver removed the screws holding the burner in place from below. I then unscrewed the bottom plate of the oven from the top so I could get to the burner. I unscrewed the one screw still holding the burner in place. Disconnected the old igniter and then cut the cables at an appropriate length so I could re-use the connectors on new igniter. Spliced together using wire nuts provided, mounted new igniter to burner, put it all back together and it fired up like it was new.

I removed the oven grates and removed 2 screws that held the bottom pan in the oven to get easy access to the burner and igniter. Remove 2 screws that held the burner in place. Removed wire nuts. Removing burner allowed easy access to fasteners holding ignitre in place. Confirmed that the igniter was bad by checking the continuity. Ordered part later in the evening from parts select. Part was here 2nd morning after I ordered it. Installed, and checked to make sure igniter wasworking properely. When check confirmed igniter was working, replace oven components. Saved myself $100 or more by doing it myself rather than having a repairman out.

I open the oven, then pulled out the racks. I went on to remove the bottom pan by removing 2 screws from the back.. I then removed the broiler burner and disconnected the wires from the relay. I unscrewed the igniter and replaced it. I stripped the wires and connected the old connectors using the ceramic wire nuts. I put the burner back in place and connected the wiring.. I then trested the unit to make sure it worked . . .it did. I replaced the bottom pan and racks and once again made sure everything was working right.

Job done.

Part arrived day before thanksgiving bent old igniter back and forth till broke off then easily took out screws.Cut and strip old wire, screw on new ignighter this was tough to get a wrench on with the positioning but after connecting those wires and slappin the rest of the oven back together one turn of the temp knob told me thanksgiving was going to happen Thanks to part select I was lookin like a hero!

I removed the oven burner while the igniter attached. put unit on my bench and changed the igniter and reinstalled the burner and reattached the wires to the supply terminals. Tested the unit and it lite up ok.

The range still worked and the broiler still worked. I noticed that the ignitor for the broiler turned on and glowed a short time after starting the broiler. I dissembled the floor of the oven (just two screws) and tried the same for the oven, but the ignitor did not start or glow. I ordered the part. It was sent withing two days. It was easy to replace and the oven has worked well since. I recommend ordering the attachment fixture as well, in that taking apart the one that held the old ignitor immediately stripped a screw and I ended up bending the fixture and having to reshape it (the small extra cost will be very well worthwhile!)

I removed the oven door, racks, and oven floor. That was easy, the floor had two thumb screws and one phillips/hex screw. I removed the lower drawer and the 2 covers above the drawer. The igniter was held in place by two phillips/hex screws. Had to manuver a bit to get the right angle to remove the screws. THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE REPAIR, when you cut the two wires to remove the old igniter, cut them off as close to the old igniter module as possible. On my stove one of the wires on the new igniter was about an inch too short and I had to add a section of wire. Overall the whole job was easy. Keep track of screws as you remove them.

I took out the racks, unscrewed the bottom cover, removed the bottom drawer, cut the leads for the igniter, removed the bad one, had a little difficulty installing the new one, the screws were a little longer than the old ones, and were a little hard to get at, rewired the the leads, and put everything back, and started it up and it worked great!

Good friend said he could do it no problem at all!!!!!

I first checked the power by pushing oven button, I heard the relay make a sound " CLICK" ,I then knew it wasnt the power .I then removed the oven racks and then I removed the the two screws holding the pan in place. I hit the power button and noticed the ignitor did not glow as it should.I ordered the part and replaced it and had frozen pizza 20 minutes later.

To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with excellent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald

First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy process(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.

There are other descriptions here, but here's my story. I pulled the oven door off (pull straight up on it, it will come off) and removed the bottom warming drawer (there are plastic tabs on the outside of each side of the drawer--slide them and pull, several times on each side). I turned off the gas from behind the stove and unplugged the range, undid two screws at the back of the oven floor and lifted it forward and up. The burner is visible, but here is the hard part. The bolts holding the ignitor are underneath it and angled such that it is almost impossible to get any type of tool near them. I have small hands, and that helped. The screws are a bolt-head type or hex head, and I found that a one quarter inch open end wrench sort of fit. 6mm was too small and 7mm was too large. I managed to get the screws loosened after much struggling and manuvering, with half my body inside the oven, and once it was out, I was able to reach in from where the warming drawer was and unscrew the two wire leads attached from the ignitor to the power. They are held by plastic screwcaps. The reverse process was self explanatory, except that you should put the new ignitor in the oven and feed the wires down through the back panel, then attach the screwcaps to join the wires to the leads. Then go back in the oven and attach the ignitor, back screw first, and tighten it all the way, since you may not be able to reach it once the front screw is in. Also, use the screws that come with the new ignitor, since they are easier to start than the old ones. Tighten the screws as tight as you can get them so the ignitor doesn't wiggle, then turn the gas back on and plug it in, and test it before you put it back to gether. Mine worked, but it was a pain to do, kind of like working on an old car that wasn't designed to be fixed easily. Good luck.

replaced oven igniter - further details superflous as others have acurately documented the fix and procedure - thanks to all of you -

Got the igniter ordered. Since the original igniter was still on the appliance, I had to cut the wires on the original igniter in order to be able to attach the new igniter with the wire connectors supplied. Make sure not to cut the wire on the original(defective) igniter too short because otherwise you will have to splice again.