7909082140C Kenmore Range - Instructions
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Replacement bowels didn’t fit
Pulled the heating elements out took the bowels out that didn’t fit, threw them away and replaced them with the perfectly fitting bowels from this site and replaced the heating elements.
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- Customer:
- Margaret from Portage "BlueKnob", PA
- Parts Used:
- 316048414, 316048413, 5303935058
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
wiring was burnt off to burner
The range, (1988 Tappan) was givin to the church by one of our members. While using it, --after a period of time-- the wire burnt off to one of the burners. Since the couple gave us a brand new top for the stove that was still in the box, we decided to fix the stove up.
Now, with new wiring to all four burners, new shiney drip pans and,,,,a new top, we have a very new looking stove for in our church kitchen.
The parts I ordered from PartsSelect, came in just a few days of placing the order,
This is one site that I have wrote down in my address book for any future parts to items we may need.
Now, with new wiring to all four burners, new shiney drip pans and,,,,a new top, we have a very new looking stove for in our church kitchen.
The parts I ordered from PartsSelect, came in just a few days of placing the order,
This is one site that I have wrote down in my address book for any future parts to items we may need.
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- Customer:
- Chhabildas from Charlotte, NC
- Parts Used:
- 318372210
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Enement was blew out.
I order the Element and received just in 4 days. It is Real incredible. I just opened the box and replaced the burners.
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- Customer:
- Armando G from Alice, TX
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Electric burner switch shorted out.
First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connect them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.
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- Customer:
- Phyllis from Elberon, IA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Large burner wouldn't heat
Removed back off of stove. Removed two screws that held in the switch, removed the wires that were connected to the switch and replaced the part.
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Both front burners began heating too fast and too high. One damaged the finish on the splash pan.
At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.
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- Customer:
- Jerrold from San Marcos, TX
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
switch not always turn off
Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.
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- Customer:
- Wendell from Ocala, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316067902
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven racks rusted
Ordered new racks and replaced them.
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Needed new drip bowls.
Pulled out heating elements. Removed old drip bowls. Inserted new drip bowls and re-installed heating elements.
I was extremely pleased with the very quick delivery of needed parts.
I was extremely pleased with the very quick delivery of needed parts.
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- Customer:
- JOAN from Pickford, MI
- Parts Used:
- 330031
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
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Surface element didn't work
Make sure whichever surface element you are to replace is OFF.Carefully remove surface element by pulling it out of socket and remove drip bowl. Cleaned area around range top and place new or old drip bowl in place. Line up drip bowl cutouts and place on range top and simply push in/plug (2 prongs)in new surface element and place on drip bowl. It's that easy! To install 2 new surface elements and drip bowls took less than 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Ronald from Fresno, CA
- Parts Used:
- 330031
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Electric burner on stove would not work
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Andrews, SC
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
switch had a diffirent lug configuration
made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!
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- Customer:
- CHERYL from PERRYVILLE, AR
- Parts Used:
- 316239700
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Gasket missing
I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from MADISON HTS, VA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
L.F. large burner element either on full hot or off. Would not cycle in and out with element control switch setting.
Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.
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