79092613810 Kenmore Range - Instructions

watched the veido first then un pluged the stove then i took out 6 screws and 2 from the switch and reversed every thing

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.

Timer was bad. Removed the four screws on the rear panel, and then the four screws holding the timer in place. I let the old one dangle by the wires until the new one was in place, then just switched the wires one at a time. There is one set that has a plastic connector, and you need a small flat screwdriver to depress the locking tab on the top of the connector to release it. Be sure and order a new face plate as the old one will not come off without tearing. Re-install rear cover and your done.

Unplugged the main cord to the socket in behind range. Took back panel off. Unscrewed switch from its position on face of range. Switch is not a look alike switch to original, so had to pay attention to the labeling on both switches as to their identity. Removed one line at a time from old switch and placed on new switch. Rechecked positions of the wires and made sure there was no binding of the wire positions when installed. Mounted switch to same position previous switch was removed. Reinstalled back panel, plugged in range and tested switch. Very easy repair as long as you can see the labeling on back of switches. I used a light having a strap that is positioned on my head for best lighting possible for one person repair.

My husband unscrewed the existing element and installed the new element in less than 15 minutes. I also have to say I ordered this part on Monday and it was delivered to my door the following day, something I did not expect so that was a pleasant surprise for us.

pull back panel, 2 screws & one wire at a time.....And don't forget to KILL POWER!!!!super easy works great now and the wife loves it.

Very easy--just had to drill new holes for the clips because the are already pre set in the rubber gasket

Replaced temp probe and checked OK. This model did not have a full back as the instructional video showed. No cover to remove at all. Only suggestion might be to include two wire nuts of proper size. Average wire nut would be too big. Fortunately, I happened to have a couple.

Unplug the range, pull the knob off the front. Remove the screws from the cover plate behind the switch and remove the cover plate. Carefully pull one wire at a time off of the old switch noting the markings: "L1," "L2," "H1," etc., as the wire position may be different on the new switch. Put each wire onto the new switch as they are removed from the old one. Let the new switch hang from the wires while removing the 2 Phillips head screws from the front of the old switch and remove the switch. Hold the new one in place, start both screws, & then tighten them. Push the knob on the new switch. Plug the range in and try it. If everything works, install the rear panel and screws. I think that it took me longer to type this than it did to actually do the job.

I disconnected the power cord,took the top back plate off,the switch knob on the switch I was to change,the two screws holding it.pull the old switch out,place the new one in the holder,replaced the two screws that holds the switch and took the wires off the old switch one at a time and placed them on the new one in order on new switch.replaced the back cover and plugged power cord back in.turned range on,it was good. r taite,

take back planel off, take wires off old element and intsall new element hookup wires, put back planel ..under one hour job

Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.

Would have been simple if Frigidare had not changed the plastic snap wire connector on the part. The replacement part had a different snap together wire connection. After a couple of phone calls stating that the new part and the old part had different part numbers was informed that you have to snip off the ends and use wire connects but it was the right part. Once I knew that it was a simple repair if you have the wire connects to connect the wires.

After turning off the power to the unit, we took it out of the countertop and unscrewed the base of the unit. We then unplugged the damaged coil and plugged in the replacement part. We then screwed the base of the unit back on and replaced the unit in the countertop. The largest burner now works.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.