79092612810 Kenmore Range - Instructions

With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repair took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.

Replaced infinite control very easily.

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

replaced it

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

I am an electrician so I had no problem identifying wire and connecting them properly. However there were no instructions provided with the part and the configuration of the new switch was different than the the old one. I doubt if a DIY individual would have been capable of handling this task. Also there were no safety warning with respect to electrical repairs, which is a must today.

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range

The infinite switch arrived promptly and while not a perfect match fit the range fine. It took me a few extra minutes to figure out the wiring configuration, but it was fairly easy. I was very pleased with Parts Select's service.

Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.

Would have been simple if Frigidare had not changed the plastic snap wire connector on the part. The replacement part had a different snap together wire connection. After a couple of phone calls stating that the new part and the old part had different part numbers was informed that you have to snip off the ends and use wire connects but it was the right part. Once I knew that it was a simple repair if you have the wire connects to connect the wires.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.