79046374400 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Googled the problem and found Oven Temperature Sensor and Main Terminal Block to be the most likely problems. Turned out to be neither. No parts were needed. Oven has a thermal overload switch on the rear upper left. Thermal overload needed re-set. To do so you have to remove the oven, remove the back and press the red button on thermal overload. Biggest challenge was figuring out how to remove the oven. Even with the installation manual it was not easy to fgure out. The instructions are misleading. You need a special tool. I used two hacksaw blades as a substitute, and slid them in to release the clips. Once you figure out how to get the oven out the rest is simple.

Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws.
Saved $150 on a service repair call.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

Replaced the dual infinite switch behind the panel. The wires were easily matched, even though the switch looked a little different. Works perfectly now.

My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections.
Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.

However the 1a 1b etc. Are very hard to see thus the need to magnify. Then it was easy.
I must say the guy I talked to was very nice.

The original instructions were to replace burner and plug wires back in the same plug they came from.
The problem is that the plug order had changed between parts.
Use a pencil to highligt the plug numbers on both new and old plugset, to fint the new plug positions. And need to reorient one of the burners to allow existing wires to reach.

Removed the door from the range, disassembled the door, removed all broken glass fragments, installed the new glass, reassembled the door and reinstalled the door into the range. Straightforward and easy. Keep track of which screws go where and it is a breeze.

1. Loosened 2 sensor mounting screws and removed them. 2. Tripped range circuit breaker to off. 3. Pulled out the range but left gas connected. 4. Loosened the 4 screws on RH side of the top back panel and carefully pried that side of the panel open. 5. Using fingers, threaded the sensor's wiring harness through insulation and into the oven. 6. Unplugged old probe. 7. plugged in new probe. 8. tugged wiring harness back through insulation behind the oven. 9. Using 2 screws removed in 1 above, mounted new sensor. 10. Repositioned top back panel and fastened it in place. 11. Shoved range back in. 12. Tripped range circuit breaker to on. 13. Reset clock. 14. Set oven to 450 for test tun. 15.

Open range door remove 2 screws on bottom of stove top remove top

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

replaced it