91195489990 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I ordered the part on a Monday and Tuesday afternoon I received it! I went a route I often take first. I read the instructions of others before starting my job and opened the top of the range. There are two screws under the range top in front near the oven door, one on either side, that must be removed. After this I opened the top of the range and positioned a piece of 2X2 about 20 inches long at an angle to hold the top up while I worked on the burner. I then used my phone to take a close up picture of the old burner while in place in my range so I could refer to it when putting the new one in place. I then took a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled off the wiring, then removed lock washers under the burner and removed the old burner, being careful not to lose the washers and springs. I took the new burner and layed it along side the old one to see exactly how it would be placed under the glass cover. I replace the springs and lock washers then referred to my photo and replace all the wires to the burner as they had been. Then lowered the top in place and put the screws back in place. That was it. I'm a 67 year old female, if I can do this, anyone can!

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

For someone who does not do this often, the directiions walked us through it well. Saved big service call. I helped him hold the unit in place and he was able to connect the connections, and it works! But it was awkward to get to.

Ordered part which arrived in 4 days. Removed range door (simple), removed shelves. With a power nut driver, removed support brackets holding element from top of oven. Removed screws holding element and temp probe at the rear of oven. Removed 2 wire connectors attached to element. Removed damaged element. Attached the replacement element to the 2 wire connectors and fed cables and probe wires back into the cable opening at the rear of the oven. Attached the new element to the top of the range with the existing screws. Attached the rear of the element with the temp probe with screws at the rear of the oven. Replaced range door. Plugged in power and tested for 15 minutes. Job complete. Parts price, great! Service call saved, priceless!

Removed the old element and installed the new one.

Removed two screws inside the oven door using hex key. Then I gained access to 4 screws that allowed me to remove the oven door handle assembly. I place the oven door glass in the tracks and replaced the handle assemby and reinstalled the two hex screws.

Dear PARTSELECT

My experience with you was spectacular!!!!

The oven broiler burner went out on a Sunday afternoon while my wife was using it to cook for our family dinner. We ordered it that day and it was received, installed, and working on Tuesday afternoon...



How could it be any better?



Thanks



George Crady

Never did a repair like that. Had to ask store clerk what you call that thing you take off bolts with. But repair went great. Very satisfied. Part arrived very quickly and saved our Christmas dinner. THANK YOU!

I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!

First I unplugged the range. Then I removed the hex head screws, disconnected the two flag connectors and removed the old element. Then I reversed the process with the new element. I plugged the range back in and set the control to broil. It works like a charm!

-Pull the oven away from the wall and unplug it. -Remove the sheet metal panel on the middle of the back of the oven exposing the electrical connections. -Pull off the wire connections from the broiler element and identify which one goes to which side. Pull apart the connector for the thermostat -Go inside the oven and remove the 2 screws holding the element to the back wall. -Remove the 2 screws holding the element to the top of the oven. -Pull the element out and remove the thermostat, and attach it to the new element bracket. Reinstall everything in the reverse order.

took the old ones out & put the new ones in. Piece of cake!!Thanks for the prompt delivery!!

Just pushed on stud. Perfect fit, perfect match.