91199003991 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Jack from Cypress, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
When baking at temps > 400 the oven would beep with an error code F5 and shut off
I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.
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- Customer:
- Raymond from Madrid, IA
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven was not reaching or maintaining temperature.
Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.
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- Customer:
- Al from Ocala, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10119
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
RF Dual Burner out. Smoke in the area of controls
Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.
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- Customer:
- Dave from DANDRIDGE, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB08T10023
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven light burned out
Wait until oven is cold. Turn off power to the oven at the breaker panel (confirm: clock will be off). Open oven door. Remove upper rack. Unscrew glass cover over lamp and socket (it only turns one direction and may be tight). Slide cover off lamp socket. Remove old lamp - pull straight down. Install replacement lamp. Lamp pins line up front to back. Do not touch the lamp - use latex gloves. Make sure the lamp is fully pushed into its socket. Replace the glass cover by centering it on the socket with glass retaining tabs close to the matching areas on the metal socket. Take care not to damage the lamp. Turn the cover to lock in place. Make sure it is locked. Replace oven rack. Turn the power back on.
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- Customer:
- Zachary from ARLINGTON, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB04T10086
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Oven door gasket was fraying and started to fall apart.
1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!
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- Customer:
- Barry from Bradenton, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Outer ring of burner did not work
1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top
The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top
The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws
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- Customer:
- david from PORT ORANGE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30X44826
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The small burner inside the double burner shortd out.
The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
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- Customer:
- peter from westfield, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
outside element burned out
. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two plugs.
plugged in the new element and screwed it in place
plugged in the new element and screwed it in place
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- Customer:
- suzanne from brighton, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB55T10067
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Interior glass cracked due to heat
First we confirmed that the part delivered was the correct piece needed. We unscrewed the interior panel of the door and separated the insulation from the two pieces so the old glass frame could be removed. The rope type gasket gave us some trouble as it was difficult to stage the insulation, glass frame and rope at one time. Once we got the pieces in place it was a breeze to screw the panel back in just in time to make pies for our Thanksgiving dinner.
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- Customer:
- Chandra from Naugaeuck, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Burner element was burnt
It was very easy. First turn off the power. Remove two screws to pick up the hood then remove two screws holding the element. Tag the wires with number. Unplug the old burner attach the wires to new burner. Attach two screws with spring to hold the burner, put the hood down and put the screws holding the top hood.
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- Customer:
- Eugene from Hilton Head, SC
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10147
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Burnt Smell
Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!
Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
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- Customer:
- Peter from Abbeville, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The front right outer element was defective.
My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven.
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!
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- Customer:
- John from CHARLESTOWN, NH
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Inside burner would no longer heat
I went online and ordered the part after reading other people's repair experiences, confident that I could do it because the part was quite pricey. First, be sure you're circuit breaker to your range is off. Next, open the oven door and locate and remove two screws with a socket, that are just under the top surface which will allow you to lift up the glass top which is actually hinged...no need to pull the range out. Securely prop up the glass surface area and the burners are exposed. With a marker, mark where each color wire goes on the burner you are going to remove and also mark where the two holding brackets are. This way you can reference the locations to connect to the new one. Carefully remove the wires and brackets and install new burner with brackets and connections. Close up the top, replace two screws, turn on breaker, and if there were no other faulty components,it'll work great. P.S Be gentle getting the very snug wires off. Good Luck
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- Customer:
- Robert from FLEMING ISLE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30X44826
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Small front burner on our glass top stove died.
Robert did not do the repairs. I did! 70 year old housewife. I watched a Utube video and thought I could certainly handle that. Ordered my part from your site. It came in two days. Burnet was replaced in under 20 minutes by me! Anyone can do this. Super easy, parts just plug in.
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- Customer:
- Michael from GILLETTE, WY
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The oven does not keep adequate temperature.
Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.
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