79071410401 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

There were only 2 screws that held the door handle & cap in place, removed screws & handle to get cap pieces off. Ordered new cap, - lost screws - cap delivered - no screws had to order screws, damn! They're expensive too !! Got screws, installed handle & cap, now wife is happy again!

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly

Got a copy of the parts breakdown for the oven door from partselect. Com. Removed 8 screws from outer frame (3 top, 3 bottom, 1 on eah side). Removed the main glass pane from oven door, be careful when doing this as this is most of the weight of the door. It will want close on its own due to lack of weight. Removed the 2 top screws that attach the handle. Removed some screws from some plates that retain the 2 panes of glass of glass. Removed the third (most inner, broken) pane of glass. Replaced with new one. Reversed disassebly procedure for assembly.

First I removed the oven door from the range by removing 2 screws from the door. Next I removed 2 more screws from the oven door to get to the panel beneath. Once the top portion of the door was removed there were 4 nuts holding the glass sections together. Once these nuts were out I removed the broken class, replaced it with the new glass and reassembled. It was a very easy and quick project. I was so happy to find the part. I thought I was going to have to buy a new range. Thanks.

See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.

On the front left burner would not ignite, after the installation of the new one, same problem, new one didn't fix.. I guess it's something with the electric igniter

Having already removed the old igniter , replaced it with new.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

Remove oven racks and bottom oven panel cover.Removed old igniter.one screw was stripped so that slowed me down quite a bit! Used a small vise grip tool to remove screw! installed new ignighter,cut existing wires; spliced in new wires( be sure to unplug appliance) tested ok. Reassembled.

1- put in new thermostat 2- put in new gas valve 3- put in oven igniter ....3rd time a charm. Now I have all new oven parts! My husband installed and said it was pretty easy, have to take the oven door off and inside bottom out.

I loosened two screws(one on the left and one on the right) at the inside base of the oven door, then lifting the door off. The hinges are held in place by two screws and a flat metal covering. Remove the faulty hinges. The screw holes on the new hinges have to have some WD40 applied and then screw the screws in and out to widen the holes a bit. Once the screw goes in easily, remove them and insert the hinge into the hole that you removed the old hinges from. Replace the metal covering and insert the screws. tighten the screws. Open the hinges then slip the door back onto the hinges. Reinsert the two screws at the bottom of the door and tighten. I recommend replacing both hinges as there is a plastic insert in the hinge that becomes brittle over time and breaks.

Replaced the ingintion module, still did not work, replaced the burner complete with new ingiter , it now works but another one quit . the front right one has 5 ohms resistance ,replaced with new one with 0 ohms, the back left has 2 ohms resistance and now it does not work , will need to replace that burner allso. too bad you can't buy just the spark module for the burner.

first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.