79073033316 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Watched a half dozen You Tube Videos before I saw the Exact one-Submitted by a Woman-Super Easy-Had the Exact Part from this site!

Once I confirmed that there was 120v service to the range (even the oven light worked) it was clear the the board had been fried. It is a simple matter to remove the rear cover plate from the range,. The control board is held by 4 screws, and a single connector for power and all controls of the range (as well as the clock). Removed the old one and installed the replacement. All done.

The Appliance light was installed in a wood burning oven used by a commercial bakery. The entirely masonry oven is used to cook a specialty product with origins in Brazil.
We first drilled a 11-3/4 hole from the inside of the oven starting at the fire brick that passed through the concrete block outer shell of the oven to accommodate the insulated wiring to the on/off switch outside the oven. Then we commissioned a special steel cowling to enclose the the back and sides of the lamp so that the lamp faced down, instead of out and the back of the fixture was protected. The back of the lamp was attached to the insulated switch wires, then the custom lamp housing with filled with fire proof insulation. The entire lamp housing was then attached to the upper face of the masonry wall with 1/4" x 4" masonry bolt head screws. This type of installation was required because the oven overall size of 6' tall x 4' wide X 4' ID dimensions required a heat resistant light to illuminate 15 shelves of product being produced.
The oven lamp purchased works perfectly for the new oven. By the way, the oven does not have a brand, as it was created as a one of a kind, the brand of the oven lamp was taken from a Kenmore Gas Range.

YouTube video I used was for a newer version of the same model stove. Door did not have latches to remove it. It was fairly easy getting to the old igniter but a bit of a struggle getting to unplug it, as the connector was behind a small metal shield in the bottom left corner of the oven. Because I couldn’t remove the oven door, it made it more difficult to undo the screw holding it in. I finally did, and from that point it went smoothly. I was worried that I was going to access it from the back, but I didn’t need to. I installed the new one, turned gas back on, moved the stove back to position, and turned on the oven. Very happy to have succeeded, adding a few more years to the stove and saving money for the installation of the igniter.

Open the door and slide in the new rack.

replaced it

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)

Unplug the stove from the wall socket. Remove the oven door as shown in the instructions for replacing the door. This makes the job a lot easier. At the rear of the bottom panel there is a screw at each corner. Remove these screws, a screwdriver will loosen them, then remove by hand. If you have a convection oven remove the fan cover as this prevents the bottom panel from coming out. There is a screw at the top and the bottom of the cover. You can then gently lift the bottom panel at the rear and work it out of the front lip. Install the new bottom panel in reverse order.

Would have been simple if Frigidare had not changed the plastic snap wire connector on the part. The replacement part had a different snap together wire connection. After a couple of phone calls stating that the new part and the old part had different part numbers was informed that you have to snip off the ends and use wire connects but it was the right part. Once I knew that it was a simple repair if you have the wire connects to connect the wires.

I pulled the top cover from inside the oven off and unscrewed 2 screws to remove the heat plate. After i unplugged the adapter for the old ignitor apart and unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws that hole the ignitor to the plate. i replaced with the new ignitor, screwed back in place , plugged the 2 wires and the adaptor plug in and i was done , in less that 30 mins.. I also saved $180 (Sears $260) on this do it yourself repair.. Thanks PartSelect for having the part in stock.... R Diaz (Bklyn N.Y.)

Removed outer glass first ,then worked my way thru to inner glass..

Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range

I followed directions for replacement of the glass from the web. Replacement was simple and easy.

I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.