20215 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the cover plate for the burner switches and verified the wiring on the other switches. I had removed the bad switch a few years ago and I needed to make sure that the wiring was correct. I did not keep the original screws that hold the switch in place, because I destroyed them when I first removed the old switch. The were corroded from years of cleaning solution. I made new screws from longer wall socket screws by shortening them with a hacksaw. The entire process took about 30 minutes to do, and the results were good. The new switch is smoother than the others, but functions exactly the same.

Removed 2 mount screws, slid element toward me to expose the wire attachment to the spades on the loop. Reversed the process with the new element and installed the screws.

The video you provided was excellent! Turned the circuit breaker off. Removed four screws, pulled out control panel, took a picture of the wiring to be safe. Disconnected the wires from the damaged control and removed it (two screws removed). Mounted the new control, connected the wiring, replaced the control panel and the four screws. Circuit breaker back on, turn burner on. That's it. Thanks for the video!

I shut off the power to the unit took out a couple screws , the bad element . Replaced the new element turned on power and that was that a quick process and oven is working like a charm. Thankyou

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

Ordered oven element. Had to use liquid wrench to loosen screws holding element in place. replaced, It works. Now the top left burners don't heat up.

The basic replacement of the bad seal went fairly well. Just had to follow the other guidance and pay close attention to the correct sequence so that the door goes back together as it should be. The only real difficult part was when attempting to hold the hinge downward so that the door could be properly placed back on the hinges. After closer examination I discovered that there were two holes in each of the hinges that when they were opened all the way that the holes lined up and I cut off two nails approx 2 inches long and then once I was able to pry the two hinges all the way opened and then I used them to slip in through the two holes and they worked just fine and they held the door open, until the door could be re-installed. Once installed the nail/pins could be easily removed with some needle nose pliers.

Called Sears as they will install parts you have purchased. I am a 67 yr. old woman. Already had the new element. Cut my cost by almost 2/3rds as other companies charged a fortune to guarantee their own work with their own parts..Which they probably get from you!!!

Followed instructions. Two screws frozen. Unable to loosen. Forced to grind heads off and replace with new screws.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Left door attached to range. Took out all screws on door to get to the door seal. Cleaned parts as I went. Took out old seal and laid new seal in. Had to get two more hands to hold the parts and glass together while screwing it back together. Only hard part was remembering which screws went where. Looks and works like new. So glad I did it, as it has needed it for a long time. Easy even for a 70 year old female. PartSelect had the best price even with shipping. Thanks

Just followed the instructions on this site... :) Unscrewed the front, removed old unit taking care of which wires went where, put in new unit. Voila.

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Turn the power off to the oven. Removed two screws on the back of the oven which held the element in place. Gently pulled out element and unhooked it from the clips. I then got the new element and hooked it back into the clips. I pushed it back in and replaced the two screws. Restored the power and turned on the oven. It works like new!

I simply removed all the oven racks so I could reach in, removed two screws, un-clipped the old element and clipped in the new one. Put the screws back in and popped in a chicken ready to bake. Delicious.