2783138815 Kenmore Range - Instructions

We found the part right away from the diagram provided by your web site. We located the part number easily, paid on line and received in part in two days. My husband fixed it. It was relatively easy. Saved us money to pay someone to fix it. It could easily cost us more than $200.

removed screw from heat sheild, unpluged igniter and tested for 110v on wires feeding igniter (ok). removed bad igniter,ordered new one and installed with 2 - 1/4in. hex head screws. cut old male and female plug ends off old igniter, and wirenutted onto new igniter. turned on oven and it works fine. but noticed after oven burner lights, igniter stays on the whole time oven is on. I would think that it should go off when burner lites. Does anyone know if this is normal operation?

Basically followed the instructions that others had posted. Removed the bad oven igniter by removing the two screws securing it to the burner. Attached the new ignitor and then spliced the new wires into the old wires with the ceramic nuts that came with new igniter.

took the bottom plates off with philips screwdriver.(note) there are two plates..outter and inner..to get to the two screws on the igniter.Remove igniter(two nuts). Install new. Cut the wires from old(lower part of oven and rewire with porclain wire nuts.Very simple...Partselect was great too..very fast shipping. Will do buisness again.

followed peoples advices and all went very smooth. make sure to undo bracket from behind bottom drawer as it will make your life much easier.

Took off the 2 bottom covers, saw the igniter did'nt glow, checked for voltage,yes.Ordered part. when had part,pulled out ignitor,respliced wires, and did in reverse order.

Just replaced the igniter, was pretty easy

First I removed the bottom oven drawer then
I removed the heat shields. I removed the two
wires that connected the igniter and the two screws holding the igniter and removed it. I
replaced a wire connector on one side of the
igniter. The other igniter wire I soldered together
to the other wire. Then I replaced the igniter by
reconnecting the two mounting screws. Then I replaced the heat shields and the oven drawer.

I followed the advice in the previous repair stories as this was very helpful.

I didn't know if polarity on the igniter mattered, so to be safe I marked the same wire on the old igniter and the corresponding wire on the new ignitor and plug, so it would be hooked up with the same polarity.

I took the burner element out to make it easier to replace the ignitor. I made sure to leave plenty of wire when cutting the connectors off the old igniter. Hooked everything up and it worked perfectly.

To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with excellent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald

First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy process(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.

I removed the bottom cover inside the oven. Beneath that was another cover held by two screws. I removed these and the ignitor was right there. I removed the bracket screws and pulled the ignitor away from the back wall of the oven and cut the two wires close to the ignitor, leaving enough wire to reconnect the wires from the oven outlet to the new ignitor with the supplied wire nuts. Then I re-attached the bracket to the new ignitor and once that was done simply reattached the unit to the back wall of the oven. The whole job is pretty straight forward, the only difficult part being the limited work space INSIDE the oven.

replaced oven igniter - further details superflous as others have acurately documented the fix and procedure - thanks to all of you -

Per the instructions included with my part and from reading prior posts, I unplugged my range, removed my storage drawer, took the screws out of the bottom pan and removed. I found the igniter really easy to locate. As it was held in by a bracket that was soldered in, I found no need to remove many screws or to add the included mounting hardware as the part instructions suggested. I removed it, placed and mounted the new igniter (only two screws) before I snipped the connecting wires. Stripping the insulation material off of the wires seemed to be the MOST difficult part! I spliced the new to the old using ceramic caps enclosed with part, plugged in the range and fired it up...just to be sure it worked, and it did! I reversed the process to put it back together. Voila!

Got the igniter ordered. Since the original igniter was still on the appliance, I had to cut the wires on the original igniter in order to be able to attach the new igniter with the wire connectors supplied. Make sure not to cut the wire on the original(defective) igniter too short because otherwise you will have to splice again.