9116248810 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

1st, Turn off the stove at the electrical box. 2nd, Remove the oven door by opening it to the first stop, and then pulled it straight up. 3rd, Remove the 2 screws using a 1/4" nut driver. 4th Pull the old heating element straight out, until the two wires that attach to the element are out 3" from rear oven wall. (Note: Place a peace of tape around each wire before disconnecting from the element. this will keep the wires from falling back through the holes). Remove the wires from the old element and remove the old element. 4th Place the new element into the oven, place the wires onto the new element. Then reverse the order of removal for new element install, for the repair. Less than 10 minutes.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires were a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!

As others have described, the removal of the old bake element is easy, just undo screws in the mount holding it to the inside wall of oven and pull out, then disconnect wires.

The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the majority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.

Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.

I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.

Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.

Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.

A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.

Slid door off hinges. Removed 3 screws which hold hinge in place. Removed drawer to access spring for hinge. Gasped at all the crumbs and crap which had collected underneath the drawer. Cleaned up crumbs+crap from floor. Disconnected spring from hinge and removed old hinge completely. Installed new hinge with 3 screws. Attached spring to hinge - center hole fitting. Slid drawer back in place. Angled hinges outward in order to re-install door. Slid door back onto hinges. Door now operates nice and smoothly. Job well done.

Inspected bake element. Found void. Ordered new bake element from Parts Select. Price was very reasonable. Part came the next day. Stove was fixed in 5 minutes. Great place to get appliance parts. Saved over $100 if repairman was involved.

Well...you'll notice in other tools I put Tweezers. Now you really don't need tweezers if you do it right in the first place. Here's what I did: 1) unscrewed the nuts that hold the element in on the back of the unit. 2) Then pulled the terminals out of the holes in the back of the oven. OOPS...there were sparks as the right terminal wire hit the metal frame of the back of the oven. Scared me. I jumped. the terminal wire burned/broke off and fell back into the hole. Yep...Too late I remembered that the VERY first step of this repair is 1)CUT OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. I repeat...THE FIRST STEP IS TO CUT OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. I couldn't reach the wire with the needle nose pliers so I had to go get the tweezers. Couldn't see the wire but I just put the tweezers in about two times and it finally caught on the wire and I was able to pull it out. Luckily the terminal end was still connected to the wire so I didn't have to replace it. From there it was 3)remove the old terminal posts from the wires (used the needle nose here to wiggle the ends off - been on a long time), 4)insert the new ones, 5) push the terminal posts back in the holes, 6) screw the nuts back on, 7) bake the cornbread. A very quick job -- plus the element from PartSelect was almost half the price of any other I found (due to this I was able to upgrade the shipping a little to get it sooner and still saved money over any other price I found. Just remember to CUT OFF THE JUICE BEFORE YOU START this repair and it will be done in 5 mins or less.

I actually don't remember if instructions came with purchase. I have purchased appliance parts from here before and they did on previous times. I watched a couple of YouTube videos because I'm a visual guy (as I think most guys are) and the only difference between my reality and the video was I had nuts holding the element in place and the video had screws holding it in place. Extremely easy!! TURN OFF POWER TO STOVE.....PLEASE. Confirm power is OFF (clock not working...range wont turn on....something like that) Take oven door off hinges (mine just slid off without any problem). Remove defective element from oven. In the back there are two screws or bolts, take them out. SLOWLY pull old element out. Be careful and look for the insulation that will try to come out of the hole and watch for the wires that are attached to the element. The wires will come out far enough for you to work with them (about 6" or so). Be very careful NOT to jerk wires through holes too much or damage them. Remove wires from element. I used two pliers, one on element and one on wire crimp...I also sprayed wd40 on the connection prior and let it set for a short time before to loosen it up. Once separated, discard old element. Get new element and reverse the process. I reconnected wires, making sure to put them back in the exact same side they came off of. Ease the element power prongs back through the holes (VERY CAREFULLY, DON'T RUSH AND TEAR IT UP). The new element will fit exactly where the old one came off and just put the screws or bolts back in place and be VERY CAREFUL NOT TO STRIP THE SCREWS OR BOLTS. Turn power back on at breaker and turn on oven to check and see that it works. It should work great. This is the second part I've purchased from these guys and both jobs went flawlessly. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND these guys...plus it's almost the only place I could find to get the parts, but still they are great.

Super simple to repair, removed back cover on oven (after turning off breaker), removed old terminals from over, had to bend new element slightly close to terminals, installed new and replaced oven cover. Less than 15 minutes.

Watched youtube....

This is how I did it--but I would strongly recommend you do step 4 first, and skip step 3! Remember, because 240V circuits have 2 "hot" wires, they may be "hot" (120V to ground) even when switched off!

1. Removed the mounting screws with a nut driver.
2. Pulled out the old element. BARE lug connectors on loose wires came out with it.
3. Watched an impressive show of sparks.
4. TURNED OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER.
5. Separated the connectors. Had to use pliers on the one I "fried".
6. Connected new element (connectors pushed together easily.
7. Reattached with screws
8. Turned breaker back on.

Watched youtube. Easy and fast!