3627162890 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Nicholas from Elkridge, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
oven igniter would not heat so gas valve would not open
removed the old part with socket set and replaced the part with a fresh one. turned on oven, igniter heated up and oven lit.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Brethren, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven would not light - no glow igniter
Removed bottom of oven Removed bottom drawer. Removed two screws holding burner, disconnected both wires.Removed two screws holding igniter,installed new igniter reversing procedure.
Could not get at the screws holding the igniter to the buner, without removing the burner.
Could not get at the screws holding the igniter to the buner, without removing the burner.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Katy, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven won't light & no gas flow
Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)
Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).
1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)
Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).
1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)
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- Customer:
- Gary from Skokie, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
oven wont heat
I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.
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- Customer:
- David from Warwick, RI
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken part
The key here was that I found the correcd part for an older kenmore oven and it was easily installed
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- Customer:
- Brenda from Franklin, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
one of the stove top burners had burned all the way through
matched part needed on web site; took off burner; ordered part; received it on the third day and easily replaced it. Wonderful, easy, and very short delivery time! Thanks.
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Humble, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven Not Working but, Roaster and Burners work
The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!
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- Customer:
- clare from north brunswick, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
old burner assembly could no longer be cleaned
pop up range top. pull off old burner. put on new one.
close top. check for rocking. install leveling washer. check again. 2nd burner didn't require leveling so it was quicker.
close top. check for rocking. install leveling washer. check again. 2nd burner didn't require leveling so it was quicker.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Haddonfield, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Oven would not heat.
First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.
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- Customer:
- William from Annapolis, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven not heating to bake items.
I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced with new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.
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- Customer:
- scott from west barnstable, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
oven would not light
I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.
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- Customer:
- Jackie from Brunswick, ME
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Gas oven stopped working (no heat).
The range still worked and the broiler still worked. I noticed that the ignitor for the broiler turned on and glowed a short time after starting the broiler. I dissembled the floor of the oven (just two screws) and tried the same for the oven, but the ignitor did not start or glow. I ordered the part. It was sent withing two days. It was easy to replace and the oven has worked well since. I recommend ordering the attachment fixture as well, in that taking apart the one that held the old ignitor immediately stripped a screw and I ended up bending the fixture and having to reshape it (the small extra cost will be very well worthwhile!)
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- Customer:
- Paul C from Bradenton, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
oven does not heat - top burners work - broiler works
1) use screwdriver to remove screws securing lower pan in oven (screws are at back of oven)
2) remove lower pain to expose igniter and burner
3) remove lower storage drawer
4) disconnect 2 igniter wires from where they are attached underneath
5) use nutdriver to remove burner from above and below (this makes it easier to remove the igniter)
6) use nutdriver to remove the faulty igniter
7) cut off clips from faulty igniter leaving enough length to strip and then attach with ceramic caps to new igniter. (be sure you attach the right clip to the right wire)
8) reverse the process to install the new igniter.
20 minutes tops
2) remove lower pain to expose igniter and burner
3) remove lower storage drawer
4) disconnect 2 igniter wires from where they are attached underneath
5) use nutdriver to remove burner from above and below (this makes it easier to remove the igniter)
6) use nutdriver to remove the faulty igniter
7) cut off clips from faulty igniter leaving enough length to strip and then attach with ceramic caps to new igniter. (be sure you attach the right clip to the right wire)
8) reverse the process to install the new igniter.
20 minutes tops
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- Customer:
- Nicholas from Palmyra, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Sunday night 4 days before thanksgiving oven wont light
Part arrived day before thanksgiving bent old igniter back and forth till broke off then easily took out screws.Cut and strip old wire, screw on new ignighter this was tough to get a wrench on with the positioning but after connecting those wires and slappin the rest of the oven back together one turn of the temp knob told me thanksgiving was going to happen Thanks to part select I was lookin like a hero!
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- Customer:
- Andrew from Woburn, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The electric igniter wore out - broiler burner
I open the oven, then pulled out the racks. I went on to remove the bottom pan by removing 2 screws from the back.. I then removed the broiler burner and disconnected the wires from the relay. I unscrewed the igniter and replaced it. I stripped the wires and connected the old connectors using the ceramic wire nuts. I put the burner back in place and connected the wiring.. I then trested the unit to make sure it worked . . .it did. I replaced the bottom pan and racks and once again made sure everything was working right.
Job done.
Job done.
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