3627171892 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First just unscrew each natural gas jet and install the propane jets. if they are hard to come off just turn your wrench back and forth first until the jet turns with your fingers. Then open the oven and take out the racks. In the bottom back of the inside of the oven there is a screw on each side. Unscrew both screws lift the bototom plate of the oven and slide it back about 1/2 inch then lift out of the oven. Move the 1 screw covering the heat shield from the oven jet. Then light the top burners and turn them off just to get the gas flowing. Also light the pilot in the oven, then light the oven. To convert the oven from natural gas to propane all you have to do is adjust the jet while the oven is lit. turn the oven jet ubtil there is a blue flame with little or no yellow tips on the flames.

Removed oven base plate by removing 2 screws and lifting out of oven. Pulled out bottom drawer and disconnected two wires from igniter. Removed 2 screws connecting burner to oven wall. Back to oven inside, and removed screw holding burner to oven bottom. Took burner out if oven. Removed 2 screws securing igniter to burner. Secured new igniter to burner. Reversed steps to put all parts back. Oven works fine.

To: Remove.Four(4)nuts. Six(6)screws. Two (2) clips. To:Reinstall reverse process. "Very simple stright forward, and most enjoyable."

1. Removed oven door.
2. Removed shelves.
3. Removed oven bottom.
4. Removed pan drawer.
5. Removed the 2 burner mounting nuts at back of oven pan drawer opening.
6. Removed top burner nut.
7. Pulled igniter out from top.
8. Snipped igniter wires.
9. Removed igniter from burner
10. Attached new ignitor wires with the enclosed wire nuts.
11. Attached new igniter to burner.
12. Replaced burner.
13. Pushed excess wire out of the oven through opening at back of pan drawer.
14. Reinstalled burner mounting nuts at back of drawer.
15. Reinstalled burner nut at top of burner
16. Reinstalled oven bottom, oven door and pan drawer.

You need to remove the knobs and remove the panel where the knobs are connected.

You also need to remove the display panel front to gain access to the where the electrode wires attach.

The other screws are readily visible. It's about 30 screws that need to be pulled.

The adapter put on the electrode can be pulled off with needle nose pliers and a small screwdriver, if the adapter does not fit through the opening on your stove. Just put the adapter back on after you snake the wires through.

Stuck the dial/knob onto the existing stem for oven temp. control. Not exactly rocket science. It was harder to find the part than to install it.

I moved to an apartment where the past tenants did not take care of the stove. I think this stove is 10+ years old and looks like it was never cleaned in all of its existance! I cleaned everything really well with oven cleaner and lots of scrubbing. The stove looked brand new except the burners! I couldn't take it anymore so I ordered new ones. The burners came in less time than stated. I opened the box, took the burners out, lifted the oven hood and just placed them right where the others were. There are no tools needed it pretty much just gets placed down in the appropriate spot and that's that! No directions or tools needed. My stove looks awesome now!! When you first use the burners, you will probably need to place a match or lighter by the burner to get the fire going. After that, it lights perfectly every time.

removed two rear screws, pulled out range bottom, dropped new one in place, and reinstalled screws...VIOLA! works like a charm. I'm a woman and 53 years old ...If I can do it... you can too!

Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service

Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He pulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.

The repair was somewhat easy, it would have been easiere if I had figured out the right part in the first place! Replacing the Thermostat is a simple task and actually only took abut 10 minutes. The harder task was replacing the glow bar in the broiler area! What a pain! The part had the same gender connector as the existing wiring. Had to cut the connectors off and use ceramic wire nuts... should be simple but the wires on the replacement part were about 1/2 inch too short! After some creative manuvering and about an hour of cussing out the OEM part manufacturer it went together and worked OK but I suggest before trying to solve a problem like this remember the basics... always check the obvious first!

Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.

I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.

1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?

The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.