20133 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

First I opened the oven door fully and secured the hinge in an open position by putting a pin in a hole in the hinge to keep it from closing. I used a drill bit as a pin. I removed the one screw from the door side of the hinge on both sides and removed the door. I them removed two screws from the hinge on the oven side. I replaced both hinges at the same time. The part I order was an exact match and now my oven door closes completely and very quietly. This is a very simple job that even a beginner can do.

Ordered the glass from Part-Select...it was very reasonably priced and arrived, intact, several days later.
Installed the new glass in less than 20 minutes...just loosened the frame from the top and dropped it right in..
Easy as 1...2...3.. Tx

It was easy enough I unplugged the stove. removed the screws under the control panel,removed the panel, removed the two screws holding the switch in place. moved the electrical wires from the old switch and placed them on the new switch. put it all back together in the reverse order.
it took greater than 15 minutes as this is the first time I did any work on my stove and wanted to be careful and not dismantle too much or scratch anything.

Opened the back of the cooktop and found upper right element control switch burned. I removed the retaining screws and wires and spent two weeks chasing the switch at a local dealer. Found exactly what I needed at PartSelect.com and paid less even with shipping than at the local. Installed the switch with original screws and presto!! it worked.

Shut off electrical breaker to stove. Unscrew & remove heating element with standard screwdriver. Since screw threads were stripped I used a longer screw I wrapped thread with teflon tape. Connect new heating element & crimp connectors to ensure contact is made, push wires back & tighten screws. Turn power breaker back on & we have a new oven!

Remove 4 screws that holds down panel;removed dial;removed screw that held switch to panel. Took off wire one at a time ann put on corresponding lug. Repeated above in reverse.

The two mounting clips supplied with the switch would not fit onto the two studs in the die casted plate (too small) . In removing one of the old clips, the stud broke off. Thus I had to break off the other stud and drill out the area to allow two screws to be inserted to mount the switch securely.

switch power supply off at breaker panel

unscrew control box assembly from stove

slide control out of stove

unscrew burner control out of assembly

transfer wiring from old control to new in same relative location

reassemble in reverse order

restore power

test burner in all positions

I removed the back of the stove for easy access to the wiring (three hex head screws) and removed the two wire leads. Then I began to remove the mounting screws from the inside of the oven, the first three screws came out fine the last one was so tight that I had to resort to vise grip pliers. Jenn-Air should have used hex head screws instead of phillips head inside the oven. Finally after about 15 minutes the last screw came out. I installed the new element, reinstalled the screws and wires. Then I replaced the back and tested. Total about 45 minutes.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Turn power off to stove. Removed two screws and lift out switch assembly. Removed each connection one at a time and placed them on the new switch. i tried the compression fittings that were sent but they were to small as I had read elsewhere so I used two small nuts to reinstall the switch. I took less than 30 minutes.

Looked up schematic. Removed 3 screws holding cover. after I shut power off of course. Took off knob. Oriented new control to the one on panel. Disconnected each wire one at at time and immediately attached it to the new control for each wire. Removed screws holding old control and inserted and screwed to the new control and put the knob back on. Put the cover back on. Worked fine. Probably should replace the others as they don't turn as easily as the new one. Probably will spray some contact cleaner which will give me a few more years.

switch went well
removed 4 screws and lifed front panal up and out

removed motor, saw that stablizers were broke and went to a local parts supply shop called SUNDBERG and was given a price of about 49.00 for three stablizers. at that point i went to the internet and found PARTSELECT.COM were i found the same parts for a fraction of the price,17.00, i could not believe it! SUNDBERG customer service was horrible.PARTSELECT custormer service is great and was just over the internet,any how the repair is done no more loud noise and wife is happy again ,for awhile.thanks keep up the good work.i tell everybody about you guys.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.