3627272590 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First shut down electric power to oven. remove
oven racks and botton tray. Removed boiler rack and door. Next unscrew 2 bolts holding igniter. remove nuts or cap for two white electric wires.
installed new igniter, hooked backup wires. replaces racks and tray and that was it, job done.

i followed the same directions others had posted - good tip to remove the oven door for easier access - i was nervous about stripping the wires to splice together, so i made my hubby strip the wires for me :) - did all the rest myself. no trouble at all - if a girl can do it, anyone can do it!

It was a simple repair removed the oven door, and the oven bottom plate. removed the screw that held the burner tube to gain access to the two screws that hold the igniter in place clipped the wires. put the new one on with butt end wire connectors instead of the wire nuts supplied. screwed the igniter back onto the burner tube put the burner tube back in place and secured it with the screw, replace oven bottom and door the whole repair took 20 minutes.

IThe schematics on the website were helpful for how everything goes together. I just followed the picture and then unscrewed all the screws that held the ignitor to the gas pipe. Have to pull out the gas pipe out first so you can get to the bolts, easy to do when you pull out the drawer and unscrew the hold down for the gas pipe.

No directions came with the part, and the length of the new wires weren't long enough nor did they have the attachment pieces that are needed to plug in the wires. However, helpful tips from others on the website told me that you have to cut the wires off the old part and screw the wires from the old to the new with the white plastic wire couplings. Worked like a charm!

It was a simple procedure, and I saved myself buying a new stove or paying someone else to fix it!

Go to utube videos for this are there

Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.

Simply removed old burners. Placed leveling nuts in place. Replaced new burners in place.

Just lifted off the old burners set on the new ones.

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

Removed the bottom plate inside the stove by removing two back screws. The burner was exposed. roved a total of three screws on gas burner to remove the entire assembly. Removed two screws from the old igniter and then put new one on. Save the old connectors because they have unique connectors. Cut old wire and strip 3/8 inch of wire cover off. Using the supplied wire nuts. Caution use only supplied wire nuts because they are meant for heat. connect old wire to new wire of the new igniter. Reverse order of screws that you did for the job. That is it

First I took out the old Igniter and discovered the part I ordered did not come with any connectors, just bare wires. This is ok but I found myself searching the stores for the correct attatchments. It would be great if your web site gave the options to order these at the same time. This was my first repair of this kind so I had no idea what I was doing. I thought the part would arrive with what I needed to install it. The hardest part was getting the bolts off the under side of the Igniter. The space if very tight and at an angle that a regular took doesn't really fit. What took so long was taking the bolts off by hand. Im a single woman who likes to try to fix things first on my own. My 18 yr. old daughter was in there with me the whole time learning and finally it was her smaller fingers that were able to get the bolts into the new part. We only finger tightened the part because no tools would fit at the curved angle. I love your web site and the ease of finding the part I needed. Its the stove manufacture who made this project difficult by how they place the screws. I will use them for all my part needs in the future.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.

Most trouble I had was removing the screws that were located under the bracket. I had to slip the oven door off first to give me more room. Very hard to get to these screws because of where they were located under the bracket. I had to twist and turn the old igniter to get to it. When finally removed, I replaced the old igniter with the new one using my own screws. I twisted the wires together, and replaced the baffles, the oven floor, and then the door. The oven fired up wonderfully! Thank you for your prompt service for getting me the part quickly and correctly.

Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.