3627271591 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Donald from Elkhart, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
everything worked on the stove except for the oven
Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He pulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.
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- Customer:
- Jeff from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB35X29720
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Broken gasket
Popped off old gasket and some retaining clips stuck but were easily removable. New gasket pops right in, super easy. Fits like new.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Fallbrook, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven burner would not ignite
Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.
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- Customer:
- Jacklyn from HOWARD CITY, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Oven igniter didn't work.
The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.
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- Customer:
- Victor from Hathaway Pines, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Broiler would not ignite.
1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Middlebury, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven did not heat
I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.
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- Customer:
- Debbie from Giddings, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner was old and needed replacing
Took it out of the box, lifted the stove lid and replaced the part, no tools required. Very satisfied with the shipping and the part, great service. Thanks!
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- Customer:
- Pearl from MIDLAND, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB35X29720
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Rubber around the oven door cracked and fell down.
Ordered the part and put it on. My husband hasn't relized that i took care of it yet. One day he might remember to ask if we ever got the part. Very quick delivery.
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- Customer:
- Sherri from MORGANTOWN, WV
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Burner could not be cleaned any more.
Just lifted off the old burners set on the new ones.
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- Customer:
- Joe from Kansas City, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven would not work. Burners worked fine. Igniter would not glow.
It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.
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- Customer:
- Victor from LIMA, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Wanted new burners for 24 year old gas range.
Simply took out old burners replaced them with new burners, no tools needed.
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- Customer:
- Chris from MUNDELEIN, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burners were old and dirty
Simply removed old burners. Placed leveling nuts in place. Replaced new burners in place.
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- Customer:
- Claudene from ORCUTT, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven racks old and ugly
1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
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- Customer:
- Pamela from ONTARIO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
One burner went out
All I did was remove the old burner and put the other one on. Took less than a minute.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Hamburg, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
oven would not ignite
First I disconnected power, then removed two screws from igniter & cliped two wires. Then installed new igniter & with the wire nuts supplied refastened to supply lines in oven.
PartSelect makes repairs quick & easy. It just takes a little smarts on your part.
PartSelect makes repairs quick & easy. It just takes a little smarts on your part.
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