2783128811 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Dexter from ASHBURN, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9697
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The oven was not igniting. The heating element was not turning red hot.
First, I pulled out the two lower drawers to access the gas shut off valve. Turned it off by using adjustable wrench and turning counter-clockwise. Then I removed the old igniter - and pulled the two wires and twist caps thru the back hole. it had continuity, but it was 220 ohms. Google research said if the resistance is too high, not enough current will flow to flip the safety valve and/or heat the heating element.
Order the replacement. When I unboxed it, I measured the resistance at 176 ohms. I thought that was a bit high. Installed it anyway, and after turning on the gas at the shut off valve, I turned on the oven. I immediately heard a snap/pop - and found the heating element had broken. I called PartSelect - and they immediately sent me another one - giving me a refund for the first one to cancel out the charge, then charging me anew for the second one.
The second one measured resistance at 68 ohms. That was much better - since resistance in igniters increase with age - 68 is good compared to 220 ohms. Needless to say - re-installed, and it worked like a charm.
Tip - you can remove the oven doors. Each door hinge has a latch. Flip them up. Door lifts straight out. Made the job so much easier.
Order the replacement. When I unboxed it, I measured the resistance at 176 ohms. I thought that was a bit high. Installed it anyway, and after turning on the gas at the shut off valve, I turned on the oven. I immediately heard a snap/pop - and found the heating element had broken. I called PartSelect - and they immediately sent me another one - giving me a refund for the first one to cancel out the charge, then charging me anew for the second one.
The second one measured resistance at 68 ohms. That was much better - since resistance in igniters increase with age - 68 is good compared to 220 ohms. Needless to say - re-installed, and it worked like a charm.
Tip - you can remove the oven doors. Each door hinge has a latch. Flip them up. Door lifts straight out. Made the job so much easier.
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- Customer:
- John from CASPER, WY
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Bad sensor
By myself
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- Customer:
- HAROLD from Tucson, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Just follow the enclosed instructions
Followed the instructions
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- Customer:
- Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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- Customer:
- Lewis from Fairlawn, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9192
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Inside oven door window
Removed the three screws from the top and bottom of the oven door. Removed the outside door cover from the inside door panel. This gave me access to the six screws that hold the two sections of the inside panel together. The glass of the inside oven window was manufactured without the installation of retainers to keep the window from moving. I installed the four retainers that I purchased. Reassembled the door. The glass now stays in place. Since there were no retainers to begin with I had to figure out how they were to be installed to prevent the glass from moving around.
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- Customer:
- John from Sandstone, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
uneven heating of oven
This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!
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- Customer:
- Les from Coal Creek, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The range kept giving an F2 alarm
When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.
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