91163271891 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First I unplugged the stove. I then removed the control panel using a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws (phillips head) holding the element in. Five wires had to be disconnected from the old element and placed on the new one. As I removed each wire from the burned out element, I placed it in the same place on the new one. I then replacedd the element on the stove and put the control panel back in placed. I plugged the stove into the wall outlet and tested the element control. This whole procedure took no longer than about fifteen minutes.

Followed the video directions on your website - GREAT INFORMATION. Everything went very smoothly It took me longer to find my work light (after turning off the electric to the oven) out in the garage than it did to complete the repair!! SUPER PLEASED - WOULD NOT HESITATE TO RECOMMEND THIS COMPANY TO ANY DIY ADVENTURER!!

I removed the heating elements and the drip bowls (wrong style). I then positioned the correct drip bowls on the stove and reinserted the heating elements. I snapped the heating coils into the small slots on the far side of the bowls to make sure that the heating elements would lay flat.
The whole process took less than 2 minutes.

I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa

pulled out the stove,,unhooked the power cord from outlet. I then pulled the control knob off and removed the the six screws from the back panel. I then removed the two screws the were under the knob and removed switch from panel..I unhooked the wires one at a time and rehooked them to the new switch,,pushed the switch back in the panel and installed the two screws. The knob was different from the shaft on the new switch so I took my dremel and contoured the shaft to fit my switch. I plugged the stove back into the outlet and it worked perfect..

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

repair went fine, real easy.

The customer service rep was brilliant in finding the
right part number! It was sent the following day
(with email to let me know) The part itself was just
exactly like the old one. I simply turned off the power,
removed the 2 metal screws and unplugged the
broken element. The new one fit properly and works
like a million dollars. For about $50, you made me
look like a hero in my own house! Thjank you

First pull knob off switch. You may need a small screwdriver to gently start it. I then removed two screws, one in each end of control panel. Then rolled the panel up and out, as it is kind of hinged in the back. Removed two screws from switch front,layed it to the side and installed new switch. Removed wires (there were 5) one at a time with needle nose pliers, and placed on new switch. Replaced panel screws and was finished. Easy fix, quick delivery of part, I have used Partselect in the past and will continue.

It was surprisingly simple. All I had to do was shut the breaker off to the stove(safety first). Next open the oven door and use a flashlight just to help you see,and unscrew the two screws holding the element in place on the back stove wall. Next slide the stove away from the was to give yourself enough room to access the back of it(you may need to unplug it to get it out far enough. My model had a cover over the back that took six easy to remove screws. Once the back cover was off I could easily see where the element was plugged into, so i removed the wires from the end of the element(just female terminals slipped over the end) i then went back to the front of the stove and pulled to element out.

To install the new one...just guide the two ends throgh the back of the stove...install the two screws to hold it in place...go to back of stove..plug in wires(they were diff sizes so you couldnt mess it up) and put the cover back on..plug in oven..slide it back..and try it out...its that simple

I followed the way all the others on this website did the repair. It was so easy. I turned the power off to the oven, then disconnected it from the back oven wall, pulled it out a bit, disconnected the wires, and put it back in.

Then we put the power back on and stood back and turned on the stove and IT WORKED!!! Yeah, and for so little money... I tell you I shopped other websites and this one was priced GREAT, and just reading the stories how others had done this repair gave me the confidence to do it too. Now, I think I have a burner that I will replace and who knows what else I can find to do.

THANKS SO MUCH!!!

1. Turned off electrical breaker for range.
2. Removed the two hex head screws that hold element in place.
3. Pulled element out and unplugged the two electrical connectors.
4. Attached connectors to new element and attemped to push element back into the opening. It would not go in all the way.
5. Apparently some of the insulation had fallen down and was blocking the area where the element slides in.
6. I used a long thin screwdriver inserted into the two holes to push the insulation aside.
7. The element was then able to go in all the way.
8. Replaced two hex head screws.
9. Turned on range breaker.
10. Turned on oven. Works fine.

first i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires .then i connected the two wires and pushed thebake element back and replaced the two screws.then i put the circuit braker back on and tested the stove and it worked great. very easy to do.