3627131892 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Debbie from Giddings, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner was old and needed replacing
Took it out of the box, lifted the stove lid and replaced the part, no tools required. Very satisfied with the shipping and the part, great service. Thanks!
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- Customer:
- Pearl from MIDLAND, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB35X29720
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Rubber around the oven door cracked and fell down.
Ordered the part and put it on. My husband hasn't relized that i took care of it yet. One day he might remember to ask if we ever got the part. Very quick delivery.
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- Customer:
- Jacklyn from HOWARD CITY, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Oven igniter didn't work.
The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.
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- Customer:
- Victor from Hathaway Pines, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Broiler would not ignite.
1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Middlebury, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven did not heat
I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.
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- Customer:
- Clayton from NEWBERRY, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 hexhead screws on back side of igniter with no room to get to them.
They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.
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- Customer:
- Sherri from MORGANTOWN, WV
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Burner could not be cleaned any more.
Just lifted off the old burners set on the new ones.
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- Customer:
- Claudene from ORCUTT, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven racks old and ugly
1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
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- Customer:
- David from Bel Air, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Mini-explosions caused by delayed gas ignition.
Removed grills, oven bottom, heat deflector, and the two igniter mounting screws. Pulled out igniter, removed two wire twist caps and old igniter. Cut off ragged ends of wires coming from the stove side and re-stripped the wire ends. Attached oven side wires to new igniter wires using new twist caps. Reassembled everything in reverse order. Tested oven operation to ensure that the gas ignited promptly. (It did).
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- Customer:
- Robert from Hamburg, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
oven would not ignite
First I disconnected power, then removed two screws from igniter & cliped two wires. Then installed new igniter & with the wire nuts supplied refastened to supply lines in oven.
PartSelect makes repairs quick & easy. It just takes a little smarts on your part.
PartSelect makes repairs quick & easy. It just takes a little smarts on your part.
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- Customer:
- Victor from LIMA, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Wanted new burners for 24 year old gas range.
Simply took out old burners replaced them with new burners, no tools needed.
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- Customer:
- Chris from MUNDELEIN, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burners were old and dirty
Simply removed old burners. Placed leveling nuts in place. Replaced new burners in place.
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- Customer:
- Brad A. from Shelbyville, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven would not lite or preheat
• Start by unplugging the unit from the wall.
• Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line.
• Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools.
• Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is.
• Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place.
• Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is.
• Remove the igniter 1-2 screws
• Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered****
• Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under****
• Reassemble the range and replace the drawer.
• Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.
Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.
• Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line.
• Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools.
• Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is.
• Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place.
• Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is.
• Remove the igniter 1-2 screws
• Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered****
• Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under****
• Reassemble the range and replace the drawer.
• Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.
Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.
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- Customer:
- Pamela from ONTARIO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
One burner went out
All I did was remove the old burner and put the other one on. Took less than a minute.
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- Customer:
- John from GLENVIEW, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burned out
Go to utube videos for this are there
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