62946979 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Replaced the control.

5 min. to replace old with new. Remove 2 screws
and detatch wires. Re-attach wires and replace screws. PROBLEM -THE ELEMENT- I recieve had 2 wire legs which hold the element off oven floor, these legs were loosely to element and one came off during installation. OEM had large clamp on legs- I had to remove leg from OEM and attach to
element.( Hacksaw ,file ,vice)

We unplugged the range from the wall first so as not to get electrocuted. We removed the face of the control panel by removing the screws and 2 hex nuts underneath that hold it in place, and removed the trim. Then we disconnected the malfunctioning control switch, taking note of what order the wires go in. Hooked the new switch up and popped it through the face of the control panel. We then put the trim back, and reattached the control panel with the screws. Very easy!!

removed the old by pulling it out of track and replaced it with the new filter

Pulled out old one and slipped in the new one.

2 screws to remove
disconnect 220 v power
use long nose pliers to transfer 5 female spade terminals
use nut driver to r@r shaft nut
replace panel with 2 screws
Turn on power and test!---OK!

Turn off the power, unscrew the two screws holding the element. Without any tool, pull the wires off the connectors. and remove the bad element.
Connect the new element. push into place, and screw it in.
Maximum 15 minutes, and didn't get my hands dirty.

Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.

Turned off the circuit breaker for the oven. Took the existing element out (really easy...a couple of screws is all) tested it with my volt meter and saw that it was bad. If you don't have a volt meter a local appliance repair shop may test it for you. Put the element back in so I could flip the breaker and use the stove top while waiting for the new element. New element came within three days. Flipped the breaker again, removed broken element and replaced it with new one. Flipped the breaker on and oven heated right up when preheated to 450 degrees :)

Nice filter. Exact fit. Had a little ring to use to pull out to clean. Shipment was packed well.

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.

1. Diagnosed problem = switch at fault not element
Made a diagram of wire positions on faulty switch
2. Ordered part = remarkable service! Switch arrived in less than 24 hours
3.Installed new switch
4. Tested appliance = success!
5. Saved $150 and a lot of aggravation
Terrific site. Excellent help in figuring out and solving the problem. Two thumbs up!

Control panel was responsive however oven would not heat up. I Replaced sensor with one of the adapters and oven is now working again.

Remove cover plate, install new switch, replace cover place. Replace one wire at a time, a pair of needle nose pliers may be helpful. Surprise of this job was that I had a torque screw driver (I think that's what it's called) to remove the switch from the cover plate. These are the screws you'll see after removing the knob. Find that driver before you begin, mine was in the garage and for the life of me, I can't remember why I ever had one in the first place.
Thanks for a great web site!

replaced stove top switch