62946979 Kenmore Range - Instructions

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The door seal was an exact fit for the factory one. There are little clips that hold the seal to the door. The clips are already installed in the seal. To remove just grasp the seal at each clip and pull up. The seal comes off easily. The ends of the seal are tucked into holes at the bottom of the door so you can just pull them out. For the installation of the new seal grasp the seal at each clip and push them into the littles holes. I used a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the seal ends into the two larger holes at the door bottom. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

1. Remove four screws on metal panel between top and lower oven doors. Pull the panel forward. You may need to open the top door partially to ease removal of panel.
2. Reach behind panel and unplug wire connector from old switch.
3. With panel free, squeeze ears on old switch and push through opening to remove.
4. Insert new switch in to hole and push from front to seat the switch. BE CAREFUL NOT to mess with the ears--if you try to splay them out (to better seat the switch) the switch will come apart.
5. Hold the panel up to opening to connect the wire harness to the switch.
6. Realign the metal plate to holes for screws and insert screws. (You may have to twist and turn to get the panel lined up.)
Done!

I only had to unscrew two screws to remove the existing element. Unfortunately, when I removed the element I found that the electrical wire connected to it had melted off, so the element is actually still good. I had to strip the wire back and put a new wire connector on. Once that was done I hooked the element back on and screwed it back together.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Make sure you turn breaker off install both wires and screw the bracket into the back of the oven. You could use a phillips screw driver but with my ovens age seemed like it wanted to strip it out so I used a socket instead. Turn on the breaker and it works like new

My husband did the repair. He had difficulty removing the old element, probably because it had been in there for 20 years. Once he got the old element out, it took less than 30 minutes to install the new one.

My son removed the switch panel and unpluged
the switch. Then he replaced it with the new
switch fasten back the panel and turned the
power back on and everythiing worked fine.

very easy, removed two screws, unplug the wires on the old element, replug the new element , replace the screws.

Unfotunely this was not the entire problem. Ended up purchasing a new stove.

I removed the screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out and disconnect the two wires. Connected the wires and place element in place and screws to hold in place.

Note: this is the second part that I acquired to fix the problem. Had I listened to my wife the first time the problem would have been solved the first time around because she made the correct diagnosis.

Open the door and remove the top screws holding the hinge retainer plates. Remove the three screws holding the glass in place at the bottom, the three screws and two nuts holding the top cover. Remove the glass, then the two screws holding the hinge in place. Reverse order for reassembly. Easy fix, but don't do what I did. I went cheap and only replaced the side that was bad only to have the other side go bad a few weeks later. Change both at the same time.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.