REP302CD1 Kelvinator Range - Instructions

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

the repair itself went smoothly. the clips that the new part connected to were old and slack. the clip came undone and had to pull the stove out to get to part from the back. i squeezed the clip together to make it stay on the new part and it held. the oven is heating well now.

Turn off power, remove heat coil assembly and drip pan. Unscrew the terminal assembly from the range top. Cut back 3 inches on each terminal wire and strip insulation 3/8 inch. Terminal assembly should be with the short side of the black block (from the side securement hubs) facing toward the coil stems. Slide the shrink wrap onto each wire and Twist each old with each new wire using the wire nuts and slide the shrink wrap Over each. Using a hair dryer, heat gun, or open flame carefully shrink the wrap. Secure the terminal back in place on the range.

pulled the element out and found it burn the connectins on one side. so i had to pull the stove and open the back to get to wiring. put a new connecter on. then connected the new element. closed the back.

Unplugged elements. Removed old pans. Wiped out holes. Inserted new pans, replaced elements.

Cut the old block off tied new wires to hot wires . That easy!

This range is probably 30+ years old. Still works great. Just needed to replace the Drip Bowls.

Plug the new element into the space on stove

First unplug the electricity from the stove. Replacement terminals on back of switch are set different than the originals. So, I took notes (purple wire =P, Black wire=L1, two yellow wires = H1 & H2, and orange wire=L2). Your stove might be different in the color coding. Just take notes. First I unscrewed the screws on the top back plate of the stove. Removed the back plate. Took notes on where the wires went. Removed the wires going to the five terminals. Unscrewed the two screws on front panel of the stove holding the old switch in place. Removed the old switch. Put in the new switch through the back of stove. Determined the length of the control shaft. Take the switch back out. With two pliers on the control shaft, holding the pliers closer to the switch firmly, use the second pliers just past the predetermined breaking point. With the second pliers snap off the control shaft. Be careful not to snap off two much. Place the switch in the proper place and mount to the stove. You may need some parts in the assembly parts package for this. I did not. Inside of the parts package is a set of plastic parts. I selected the part I needed to insert into the control knob for a bushing just to take up space. I placed that part inside of the control knob. I then placed it onto the control shaft. Plug back the wire going to the electric outlet. Instead of unplugging and plugging, you might want to switch off the circuit breaker and switch back on when the job is done. It works!

followed your directions - excellent

Removed the baking element with a nutdriver. Slid it to the front of oven and removed the contacts on the back side. Installed the new element and installed the contacts at back of element. Slid it in the holes on back inside of oven and used a nutdriver to install the screws. It was very simple to do.

Repair was simple. Unplugged stove, removed a plate from back of stove. Disconnected wiring. Removed screws from inside oven, removed old element, installed new element. Replaced screws, hooked up wiring, replaced back plate, plugged it in, used it that night.
Thanks for sending the right part the first time and getting it shipped so quickly.

First shut power to oven off, removed the oven door and oven racks. Removed the 2 screws from the back of the oven holding the element in place. Slowley pulled the element out and removed the wires, pulled off with my fingers. Replaced the old with the new in the reverse order. Saving the Wife a pile of money.

Thank You,
Jerry R

Turned off power to oven at breaker box.
Removed one screw that holds the element in place. The other screw would not unscrew, I went to hardware store for drill bit and special hand tool (which cost less than $15) to remove stuck screw. I didn't have the right size screw, so I went back to hardware store for two new screws. Pulled the element out and disconnected the two wires(they are plug-in). Lost one wire into the back of oven because I did not hod it for the new element to plug onto. I removed the back of oven by unscrewing several screws and located the wayward wire. I threaded it back into the hole (easy) and someone grabbed it and held onto it while I screwed the back of the oven back on. Then I placed the wire connectors onto the new element being sure to squeeze hard with pliers so there would not be any slipping off of the wires. The power was restored and the element worked great. A less than 30 minute job took over 2 hours because of inot thaving he right tools.

Simple: Snip old terminal block off. Strip wires. Connect new Terminal block using twist-on wire caps (provided in kit). Mount to stove top with existing screw. TIP: Make sure you insert the wire lead into the terminal block the right way (not upside down). Otherwise burner element will not insert into terminal block properly.