JDR8895BCW13 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

1) unplugged stove, 2) opened oven door, 3) removed racks, 4) Unscrewed heat element plate, 5) removed broken heat element, 6) connected new heat element, 7) re screwed in the plate, 8) plugged stove in, 9) turned oven on to verify new heat element was working, 10) placed rack back in oven. Done!

• Removed the oven door (pulled right off old hinges)
• Removed two screws
• Removed broken hinge
• Placed new hinge in place
• Replaced screws
• Replaced oven door.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

pull oven out and Un-plug oven remove screws from back panel , un plug wires from old heating element. open oven door and remove the two screws that was holding the the old heating element, pull it out . Install the new heating element and replace screw. plug wires to the heating element in the back of oven. Replace back panel. plug oven back in. and test

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Pulled the Oven out. Unplugged from wall. Removed all screws to appropriate upper stove panel to open back. Gained access to the control panel by removing all appropriate screws. Disconnected the ribbon cable and green, blue, white, yellow, black connectors.
Replaced new Control Panel and replaced screws. Plugged in each appropriate connector to its color-coded receptacle. They are all clearly labeled by color, so it is impossible to make mistake. You cannot go wrong. Connect ribbon and replace the back outer panel to the range covering the Control Panel. Plug Range into wall circuit and test new installation by following the instructions in manual that came with your range when it was purchased. Slide back into place. GREAT JOB! Easy-Peezy!

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Two Screws on the back. Pull out heating element and remove wires. Install new wires and replace screws. Done in 5 minutes

Husband took old one out and put new one in. Did not have to pull stove out. Be sure and disconnect the power at the electric box. Only 2 screws holding the element in. Easy fix, just wish they would last longer.

Removed two retaining screws and pulled out coil. one terminal came off readily but one remained and was difficult to get off. Pulled range out from wall and removed cover plate and removed existing terminal connection. Pushed new coil into oven openings and screwed in. Slide terminals on in the rear of range and replaced cover plate. Took about 1/2 hour because I was nervous.

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Had to drill out rusted screws to remove the surface plate. Then replace Orifices as the screws we're not able to be drilled out.

I took all the threads apart and added Gas pipe thread compound to the small ones and Gas thread tap for the larger ones on the back. This whole project was due to a little gas smell. None of the threads seemed to have compound.

To solve the screw issue from rusting again I bought #8 metal stainless steal metal screws 3/4" with Hex heads. The old ones were for wood and just zinc coated. I had to rethread all the Orifices including the new ones with a tap set. Do yourself a favor and do the #8 1/2" ones by the dials too. This should solve any rusting issues in the future. This worked well and is similar to their new setup. I hope this helps.