JDS8850CDS02 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Followed provided video

Watched the video and it was as easy as described. Not many things go as easily as this.

I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.

The "PartsSelect" General discription of the parts funtion helped me to confirm my suspitions that there was some form of temperature registering problem. I whatched the short video they provided on how to change the part out, even though, in this case, it's pretty self explanitory.The part was in my hands a day erlier than promised and in reality, much earlier than I had anticipated from the beginng. It took me all total, 20 minutes to exchange the part out and have the oven in operation again.

Disconnected power pulled oven from wall, removed 8 screws from back, unplugged sensor, removed old, attached new, put screws back wow saved me $500. From buying new and $150. For service call

Removed oven door (slides out). Removed side and bottom screws from frame and slid new glass into place. screwed in the 8(or so) screws.

Replace the oven sensor per the excelent easy video you provided

Watching the video of how to replace the sensor was great help and much appreciated, the only difference was that my wires were much shorter and I had to pull the oven out of the cabinet to get to the back of the oven to release the clip holding the wires together, unlike the video where the man jiggled the wires until the clip holding the wires together came through the little slot where the probe is attached, otherwise it was pretty simple, just a few extra steps to pull the oven forward to get to the rear to release the clip holding the wires together. Once I was able to release the clip I used one of the 2 adapters that was sent with the sensor probe and attached them after putting the wires through the hole where the probe was attached first then replaced the 2 screws that holds the sensor in place, slid the oven back in and turned the circuit breaker back on and it works perfectly. The video gave me the confidence to do this job though and I thank PartSelect very much for being a great company to help with videos and sending the parts so quickly.

removed 2 screws in probe and pulled it out.had to take back off as wire was tangled from factory and couldn't do quick repair

I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards

Screws holding burner base and ignitor were plain steel. If they had been stainless they probably would not have rusted in so tight. One in the base broke off, and the one holding the ignitor could not be removed, even with heat from a torch. I ended drilling it out and re-tapping the hole. If I wasn't mechanically inclined I would have had to give up and order a new burner base.

Easy just loosened screws took apart door, removed broken glass and installed new glass.It took longer to clean the stove! Lol!

Do not buy just the burner electrodes. The screws that hold the electrode will break off. Purchase the burner head with electrode. I would recommend placing anti-sieze lub on the new screw that holds the electrode to the burner head so if the electrode fails again it can be replaced. The screws that hold the burner head to the top top are mild steel and will rust and snap off. I would use a rust penatrent on these screws several days before trying to remove but most likely they will strip or break off. Replace all these burner head screws with stainless steel screws with anti-seize applied. If any of this sound difficult call a repair company.

Removed the burner & igniter as a unit. Screws holding burner down were very tight. One came out with effort, the other one the head broke off. Tried heat but to no avail. The screw holding the igniter had to be drilled out. Fortunatly I work in a machine shop so I was able to remove the screw, but the hole was then too large for the replacement screw. I wound aluminum foil around a toothpick to form a bushing in the hole so the screw could grab. Same principle as those plastic anchors for plaster or drywall. Bought stainless screws, but did not even try to get the broken screw out of the cooktop. The one screw holds it in place just fine. Wife is very happy.

The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.