SVD8310S-C Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Motor (Blower Motor Kit) Part Number: PS1569907
No instructions are included in the package from PartSelect. Disassembly from the main housing was relatively simple. I found that paying VERY careful attention to how the original motor was wired and mounted would pay off in correct re-assembly, conquering motor vibration and rubbing. Most of my project time was spent cleaning the rotating blade wheel from 20 years of grease build-up. On tools, I would have appreciated the inclusion, or availability as an accessory, of a long-stem correct-size allen wrench (used in removal of the fan blade wheel.) The job went well, and probably saved me $200 in service call and labor.

Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos!
I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!

None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition module. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.

- the fan/light switch was still functioning, but it fell into the cavity underneath, after years of use, heat and grease caused it to weaken.
- 4 wires came off the old switch, and went on the new one with ease.
- the only complication was in getting the clips off of the old ones, and getting the new clips onto the new one. otherwise, a piece of cake.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Replace filter

Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter.
As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping.
Removed old seal and put new one in its place.
Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one.
Put door back on the hinges and the job was done.
Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.

We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.

Removed the 4 screws on the bottom of the panel, lifted the panel out and up to clear the uper part of the panel. Removed the screws from the left and right switches, which hold the bracket of the clock, marked the wires of the clock and removed the wires. Installed the new clock in reverse. The power to the range was off.

First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.

I eventually searched online for a supplier and ordered the replacement knob. Ordering was easy and delievery was quick. Replacing the gas valve knob was easy; just slid it in place. Now all 4 burners are available for cooking again.

Cut power!
Removed old switch.Only problem was new switch had shifted the four 'spade' connectiors on back so when I was done fan and light switch was crossed.

Everything PartSelect had on their site was perfectly correct.

REALLY appreciated the way PartsSelect handled everything, I will be back for further help on other things.

After accessing the switch and removing the wires(four wires as the rocker switch operates both fan and oven light) I attached the wires to the new switch. However , I was unable to mount the switch in place as I could not get the spring - clip type of fasteners to slip on.
Fortunately, there was space to drill a hole on each side of the switch and I used brass machine screws
and nuts to hold the switch. The round-head screw
tops show on top of the stove, but at least the new switch is in place and operating.

The job was easier than I thought it would be. Turned off power at breaker first! Used phillips screwdriver to remove 2 fairly tight screws located on the vent side of the switch mounting plate. Flipped over plate and wrote down the 4 spade tip wire colors and location on switch. Removed the wires from the switch and removed the switch by prying off the locking washer with a sharpened/filed thin putty knife to get under it and then a flat blade screwdriver to finish removing it. Put the new switch in, hooked up the spade tip wires, mounted the plate back on and turned on the power. Worked great and I even impressed my Wife!

I first bought an oven thermometer to check temperatures at different levels. Temperature was about 10 or more degree off. I next looked at the manual and found you can make an adjustment to the temperature knob. This didn't make a difference. Decided I would replace the bottom heating element. I ordered and got the element in a matter of days.
The hardest part was loosening up the screws on the bracket for the old element. Thus the use of the vice grip came in handy. My oven is 20 years old!!! I'm sure I saved my husband a couple hundred bucks worth the repair guy.

My thanks to "Part Select" for making the process so easy to order and get a replacement. The repair guy finally called yesterday. Five days after I repaired the oven myself.

Go Girls, you can do it!!!!!!

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.